Refrigerator Glass Shelf Broke and Shattered

Refrigerator Glass Shelf Broke and Shattered

The glass shelf in my refrigerator just broke and shattered, it literally exploded into thousands of tiny pieces all inside of the refrigerator.

 

While I was cleaning out my refrigerator and getting rid of leftovers, out of date condiment jars and bottles, I noticed a glass jar of apricot preserves in the very back that I haven’t seen in months.  It was on the very bottom shelf so I reached in and grabbed the jar but it wouldn’t budge.  I should have stopped and taken the shelf out with the jar stuck to it right then but I didn’t.

The shelf just slips right out of the brackets, but me in my infinite wisdom, reached back in for another go at it and grabbed the jar to give it a good tug toward me.  Just as soon as I gave the jar a tug I heard a shattering explosion of glass.  The shelf just disappeared before my eyes into thousands of tiny pieces and scared the bejeebies out of me.  So there I am holding an old jar of apricot preserves and still in shock.

Looking at the huge mess I just made, all I could think about was I wish I had a do over and wanted to kick myself.  Well, it is what it is, can’t  turn back time,

just turned a fifteen minute job into a costly few hours.  After getting all of the tiny glass pieces cleaned out of the refrigerator with a shop vac, wiping and cleaning the refrigerator out really well, I replaced all of the drawers, brackets and shelves, except for one, of course, lol !

My refrigerator is about twenty years old and I didn’t think that I would be able to find a replacement shelf for a refrigerator that old.  I was shocked when I typed the make and model number into a web search and the exact replacement part was still available for my twenty year old refrigerator.  I ordered the shelf for $57.92, shipping included, and received the new shelf in three days.  I installed it in the refrigerator and it fit perfectly.  Now everytime I see a jar of jam or preserves I am reminded of this costly experience.

Refrigerator Door Gasket Won’t Seal

Refrigerator Door Gasket Won’t Seal

As a refrigerator door gasket gets older it loses its elasticity, becoming  hard and somewhat brittle, no longer pliable and able to flex or move to form a good seal between the refrigerator door and the cabinet of the refrigerator.

 

In some instances the whole gasket will go bad and the refrigerator door will no longer stay shut.  In other cases it might just be that part of the gasket will no longer seal.  This usually happens around a corner of the door gasket.

If your refrigerator door gasket has become hard and will no longer seal in a few places, you can try to heat the gasket in those hard places, using a hair dryer set on the hottest setting.  Holding the hair dryer a few inches away from the gasket, move slowly back and forth over the gasket until it becomes warm to the touch, then shut the refrigerator door, do a visual look around the door and make certain that the gasket is sealed correctly into position and it has not folded or creased anywhere.  You may have to use a putty knife to push down on the gasket in places while it is still warm, with the door closed.

Be certain to leave the refrigerator door closed until the gasket has had time to fully cool down. Twenty minutes or so should work fine.  Hopefully this brought some new life back into the old gasket and helped to make it seal the refrigerator door properly again.

Refrigerator Drawer Replacement Tips

Refrigerator Drawer Replacement Tips

Before installing the new drawer in your refrigerator make sure the new drawer is the proper replacement part for your model refrigerator.

Check all of the drawer slide rails/glides in the refrigerator to make sure that they are intact and are not broken or have become loose from the refrigerator interior wall.  If they have become loose you will need to tighten them.  Make sure they are secured before the new refrigerator drawer is installed.  If broken, they will need to be replaced.

 

 

 

 

 

Make certain the slide rails or glides are cleared of all foreign objects such as food, sticky substances such as jellies, syrup etc.  Removing this might require warm water and scrubbing the groves or slots out with a soft scrub brush.

Once you have made sure the refrigerator drawer slide rails/glides are not damaged and are cleaned and secured or fastened correctly, you can proceed to install the new refrigerator drawer.  Go ahead and give the new drawer a few test runs pulling/pushing it in and out a few times before loading it with food.

Overloading Your Dryer Could Damage It

Overloading Your Dryer Could Damage It

If you overload your dryer you may be asking for trouble.  Putting too many clothes in your dryer may actually damage it and possibly burn out the dryer motor.

 

If your dryer shakes, vibrates, rattles or even tries to move around the room, it could be that the legs on the dryer are uneven or the floor surface is unstable but most likely it is because you have over loaded it, too many clothes!!

A number of dryers have different settings and cycles for a variety of times, fabrics and item options.  If you use the Air Dry or Air Fluff cycle and it leaves your clothes damp it is because not enough heat was produced to dry the clothes, using the wrong cycle and time setting can leave the clothes damp, also piling too many clothes into the dryer will prevent the clothes from tumbling freely and therefore prevent them from drying.  If the dryer has a dryness sensor the sensor may overload if the clothes are not able to dry adequately.  The sensors then would malfunction or stop working.

The dryer motor could possibly burn out prematurely if you continue to overload it because it puts a strain on the dryer.

If you are overloading your dryer on a regular basis, that can eventually cause the system to overheat and cause damage to the unit.

Gas Range/Stove Igniter Keeps Clicking

Gas Range/Stove Igniter Keeps Clicking

Electric igniters spark the surface burners on a gas stove/range.  When you turn the burner on the igniter produces a clicking sound which should stop once the flame appears.

 

When you turn on your gas stove or range burner but it won’t quit clicking or ticking there are simple repairs but also difficult parts repairs.  Not all repairs are for one model of stove so check your owners manual for your specific model instructions.

If your burner is clicking but not igniting check to make certain the burner cap is centered on the base.  If clicking is still an issue check to determine if any liquids have been spilled on the cooktop or is it possible that there may be a draft in the area.

A clicking sound will occur if there is no gas, check to see that the gas supply is open to the burner.  If the burner ports on your stove are clogged this may prevent ignition and your ignitor may continue clicking.  If that is the problem you can clean out debris and buildup from the ports using a metal pin.

If moisture is in the burner ports the burner won’t ignite.  Turn off the gas supply and use a hairdryer set on the cool cycle to dry the burners.

A weak igniter or intermittent igniter spark means you will need a new spark module.  If some burners spark but some don’t it’s usually an indication that the spark ignition switch may need to be replaced.

Bad spark electrodes can be the cause of constant clicking.  This may be something that you may prefer calling a qualified appliance repair person to fix.

Top