If your cooktop or range has a radiant heating element or coil element that is not heating, you need to check the heating element for visual signs of damage.
You will need to locate the element under the cooktop surface that is not heating up and visually inspect it thoroughly to determine weather or not it has any damage. Look for cracks, burnt or chard spots on the element or a break in the radiant element coil.
If you have done a thorough visual inspection of the element and do not find any obvious damage, you will then need to do a continuity test with a multi-meter and determine weather or not the heating element has continuity or not.
If the element has continuity, then it is good and element should function properly, If the element tests show that it does not have continuity then it is bad and you will need to replace it with a new radiant surface element.
If your oven, range, stove or cooktop surface unit switch/infinite switch becomes defective, the element may stay on high heat when you turn it on, even if you have it set at the lowest setting. Of course, the heating element may not come on at all when the switch is turned on. The main symptoms when the switch becomes defective is too much heat or no heat.
If your stove, range or cooktops radiant element starts working erratically, the terminal wire ends on the range and element may be burnt or charred. This will cause the range element to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block that it plugs into. It is quite often better to replace both of the range parts. If the terminal ends on the element unit are burnt then the contacts on the block are probably burnt also. If a new element is used with a burnt terminal block these repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.
The motor control board (MCU) on the Whirlpool washer provides power to the washer motor. If the motor control board is bad, the washer may not agitate or spin.
The motor control unit (MCU) is often misdiagnosed as being faulty when quite often the problem is a bad wire connection between the circuit control board and the motor control unit (MCU). It is possible they are not communicating between one another. It may even be that the door lock has failed.
You can run some diagnostic tests on the washer using the tech sheet, it should be located behind the lower panel inside the washer’s compartment on the side wall.
It will help you to trouble shoot and isolate a faulty part or parts.
The dryer circuit control board controls most of the operations within the dryer. If the control board is bad, the dryer may not start or the dryer will not heat up.
Before proceeding any further always disconnect the electricity before working on any electrical appliances. Disconnect the electricity to the dryer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle or by flipping the breaker off. Make sure the electricity is turned off to the dryer. USE EXTREME CAUTION! YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS.
When replacing the bad dryer control board with a new control board, it is a good practice to have the new replacement circuit board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the dryer circuit boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing it.
If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad control board while it is still connected in your dryer control panel for future reference, if needed.
Now that you are sure that both of the boards are the same you can transfer the wires from the old board to the new control board.
Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board you will need to replace the dryer console or control panel, plug the power cord back in. You may need to program the new dryer control board, following the instructions for the make and model of your dryer.
The control board in your dryer has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age. Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on appliances and are responsible for damage to many circuit boards. Electrical power surges and flood waters or just moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty dryer circuit control board.
This 279838 heating element is used on many Whirlpool dryers, if your dryer has stopped heating, check the breaker dedicated for your dryer before suspecting the heating element is bad.
You will need to find the breaker box and the breaker that is dedicated for your dryer. Flip the breaker off and on even if it looks like it is already on. The dryer runs on 220 and if half of the two pole breaker is tripped the dryer motor will run on 110 but the heating element will not heat. Make sure that you are getting 220 at the wall outlet plug. Check the thermal fuse that is mounted on the blower housing for continuity. If all of the above mentioned test good you will need to locate the heating element and visually check it for broken coils or burnt wires. If it looks good you will need to test the heating element for continuity with an ohm meter.
If the test shows no continuity it is bad and will need to be replaced with a new 279838 heating element. If the test shows it has continuity, the problem lies elsewhere and more tests will need to be performed.
The surface control switch on your range controls and sends voltage to the surface element. Signs of a bad surface control switch are, the surface element may stay at high heat.
The surface element may stay at high heat no matter what setting you have the selector knob on the switch set at. You might not be able to turn the surface
element on or off at all. If the surface element is acting erratically, the surface element control switch, also known as the infinite control switch, is the main culprit and should be replaced.