Admiral Refrigerator Is Getting Too Cold

If you have noticed your admiral refrigerator’s getting too cold and freezing some of the fresh food items, use the following four steps to help you troubleshoot and repair the problem. The trouble could be as simple as turning two control knobs used to adjust the temperature setting to get your refrigerator back to its proper cooling temperature again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any refrigerator yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that refrigerators have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in refrigerator repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Admiral Refrigerator

Freezing Food

Step – (1.) Air Damper Control

If your Admiral refrigerator is getting way too cold, you might have noticed some contents in the refrigerator compartment are freezing.  The air damper control, also known as the air inlet damper, air baffle or diffuser is used to balance the cold air flow from the evaporator housing to the refrigerator’s fresh food holding section, on most models.  The inlet damper is made of plastic, with louvers like window blinds and is usually located on the interior wall of the fresh food compartment toward the bottom of the fridge.  The control knob for the damper is located next to the fridge’s cold control knob.  It might have freezer printed above or below it; it will be the knob (without) the off-position option.  Is the knob set on too cold of a position?  If so, move the knob a little bit to the warmer position.  You should be able to open and close the damper by adjusting the damper control knob.  If the damper diffuser is broken it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator, freezing the fresh food.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator for safe food storage is between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will start to freeze, if the temperature is any warmer than 40 degrees F the food will start to spoil.  You will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the fridges temperature correctly.  You can purchase a refrigerator thermometer fairly cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggests that the air inlet damper knobs indicator dial be set at the mid-range, straight up 12 o’clock position.

Step – (2.) Temperature Control or Cold Control

You will need to check the cold control knob or dial located in the refrigerator cabinet, is it set on too cold of a position?  If so, try turning the dial to a warmer position.  Service Note – The refrigerator cold control dial should only be turned about 1/8 of a turn in a 24-hour period.  You will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the refrigerator’s temperature correctly.  You can purchase a refrigerator thermometer reasonably cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggested setting for the temperature control is mid-range, this means that the indicator on the knob should point in the 12 o’clock position.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator should be between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit for safe food storage.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will freeze, any warmer than 40 degrees F food will start to spoil quickly.  Adjust the cold control knob 1/8 of a turn every 24 hours and take notes of how much colder the fridge has become and repeat the process until you hit the optimum temperature range, between 34- and 40-degrees Fahrenheit.

Step – (3.) Temperature Sensor or Thermistor

If your Admiral refrigerator is equipped with an electronic control board the temperature is going to be controlled by a thermistor.  This part is usually located near the fridge’s air inlet, the thermistor senses the temperature and relays it back to the refrigerator’s electronic control board.  The control board will then monitor the temperature and will make the necessary adjustments to the cold air inlet damper as they are needed.  The temperature sensor could be defective if it’s too cold in the refrigerator compartment.

Step – (4.) Refrigerator Main Control Board

A defective main control board could be the reason why the fridge is too cold.  The control board is used to control a number of a refrigerator’s parts and functions.  The control board is a very difficult part to test.  You can visually inspect the fridge’s control board for burnt spots, melted relays, solder joints or any other obvious signs of electrical damage and replace the board if you see any of the mentioned damage.  Electronic control boards aren’t cheap, some control boards can be pretty pricy.  Only after troubleshooting all of the other refrigerator’s components that could be at fault for the reason your refrigerator is getting too cold, should you suspect the electronic control board to be the main culprit.

Crosley Dryer Is Taking Too Long To Dry

If your Crosley dryer is taking longer than normal to dry the laundry, follow these troubleshooting steps to help you isolate the problem, find the faulty parts and fix or replace them, to get your dryer heating properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that clothes dryers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in dryer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!

Crosley Electric Dryer

Taking Too Long to Dry

Step – (1.) Safety Reminder  Remember to always unplug the power cord that is designated to the dryer you are working on before you ever begin to troubleshoot or make any repairs to it.

Step – (2.) Lint Blockage – The most common reason why a Crosley dryer takes too long to dry the laundry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to inspect and remove any lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.

Step – (3.) Blower Wheel – You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel and clean out any lint build up that is present.  Safety Note – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.

Step – (4.) Heating Element – You will need to visually inspect the dryer’s heating element for damage.  If the elements coils are intact and no signs of damage are found, you will then need to test it for continuity using a multimeter or a digital meter.  If the element does not have continuity the part is bad and will need to be replaced.  Before installing the new heating element on your dryer, you will need to check for burnt or loose wires and repair them before installing the new element.  Loose wire connections or damaged or burnt wires can short out the newly installed heating element.

Step – (5.) High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s heating element housing.  The thermostat is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the heating element off if the dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter or digital meter.  If the meter shows the thermostat has continuity the part is good.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step – (6.) Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally located on the dryer’s blower housing.  The thermostat is used to cycle the heating element on and off during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a digital meter or a multimeter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the meter shows that it has continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step – (7.) Dryer Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is defective, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.

Crosley Gas Dryer

Taking Too Long to Dry

Step – (1.) Safety Warning  Please be sure that the electricity and gas have been turned off and disconnected completely from the clothes dryer before proceeding any further.

Step – (2.) Lint Blockage – The most common reason a clothes dryer takes too long to dry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to check for lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.

Step – (3.) Blower Wheel – You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel, inside the back dryer panel, inside the blower housing.  Safety Note – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp, unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel isn’t packed with lint build up, next make sure it is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.

Step – (4.) Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board, telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is defective, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.

Step – (5.) Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally mounted on the dryer’s blower housing.  It is used to cycle the gas burner off and on during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a multimeter or digital meter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the test shows that it does have continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is defective and will need to be replaced.

Step – (6) High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s burner assembly.  It is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the burner off if the clothes dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a digital meter or a multimeter.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is defective and will need to be replaced with a new one.

Step – (7) Ignition Coils – The ignition coils are also referred to as the gas valve solenoid coils, they are mounted just in front of the gas burner assembly.  Their sole function is to open the gas valve and let the gas flow into the burner assembly.  If you can see that the igniter is glowing red hot and the burner won’t light, it is likely that one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils have failed and will need to be replaced.

Inglis Dishwasher Leaking Water

If your Inglis dishwasher’s leaking water, use the following seven troubleshooting steps to help you locate where the leak is coming from so you can repair or replace the faulty parts and get your dishwasher to function properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dishwasher yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that dishwashers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved with a dishwasher repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Inglis Dishwasher

Step – (1.) Door Gasket

If your Inglis dishwasher is leaking water from around the door, you will need to examine the dishwasher’s door gasket.  Is the rubber dried out and getting hard?  Visually inspect for rips, tears or small holes in the gasket seal and replace the door gasket if any of the mentioned damage is found.

Step – (2.) Water Inlet Valve

Inspect the water inlet valve.  If the inlet valve is stuck in the open position, the valve will over fill the dishwasher and cause it to leak water through the door.  If the valve is stuck in the on position, you will need to replace the valve to fix the problem.

Step – (3.) Hoses

Examine all of the hoses, hose ends and hose clamps.  Are the hose ends all connected securely with the clamps?  If you see any corrosion or white calcium build up around the hose clamps, this is a good sign of a leak.  You might be able to tighten the clamp, but it is best to replace it with a new one.  Be sure that you turn the water off to the dishwasher before removing any hose clamps or hoses.

Step – (4.) Wash Arm

A cracked or damaged dishwasher wash arm could be the reason why your dishwasher is leaking water from around the door.  Inspect the wash arm for damage and replace it if any is found.

Step – (5.) Pump Gasket

If there is water leaking from the center bottom section of the dishwasher, you will need to examine the pump gasket for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the sump seal and motor shaft seal and replace if they are leaking.  If you have diagnosed that the pump gasket is faulty, it will need to be replaced with a new gasket.

Step – (6.) Sump Seal

If water is leaking from the center bottom section of the dishwasher, you will need to examine the sump seal for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the pump gasket and motor shaft seal and replace if they are leaking.  If you have diagnosed that the sump has a faulty seal, it will need to be replaced with a new seal.

Step – (7.) Motor Shaft Seal

If you can see that water is leaking from the center bottom section of your dishwasher, you will need to visually inspect the motor shaft seal for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the sump seal and pump gasket for leaks and replace them if they are leaking.  If you have verified that the motor shaft seal is bad, it will need to be replaced with a new seal.

Inglis Washer Will Not Spin

If your Inglis washer’s not spinning during the spin cycle, use the following troubleshooting steps to help you isolate and repair the problem to get your washer spinning properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any washer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that washers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in washer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Inglis Top Load Washer

Step (1.) Motor Coupling

You will need to inspect the motor coupling if your washer is a direct drive machine, meaning that the washer does not use a belt.  The motor coupling is used between the washer’s motor and transmission, it is a three-piece component, consisting of (2) drive plates and (1) rubber bushing.   One of the drive plates is used on the washer’s motor shaft and the other drive plate is used on the transmission shaft, with the rubber bushing being located between both of the plates.  The most common symptoms of a broken washer motor coupler are, the washer’s tub will fill with water and drain the water, but it will not agitate or spin the wash basket.  Troubleshooting tip – A tell-tail sign of a broken motor coupling is, you might see small pieces of black rubber and bits of white plastic on the floor under the drain pump, this indicates a worn-out motor coupling.  You will need to tilt the washer back just enough to be able to see this and the pump and motor will need to be removed to replace the motor coupling if it is bad.

Step (2.) Drive Belt

Inspect the washing machines drive belt that goes from the drive motor to the drain pump pulley, if the washer is belt driven.  If the belt is worn or broken, replace the belt.

Step (3.) Lid Switch

Inspect the lid switch that is located under the lid on top load washer models.  Make sure that the switch is not broken, test the switch for continuity using an analog multimeter or a digital meter.  Repair Tip – A test meter can be purchased reasonably cheap online or from almost any one of your local hardware stores.  It is a real time and money saver when troubleshooting the numerous electrical parts on a washer.  If the lid switch has continuity and has no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the lid switch does not have continuity, the part is faulty and the clothes washer won’t spin.  You will need to replace the lid switch to fix the problem.

Step (4.) Pump Pulley

If your washer’s pump is belt driven, inspect the pump pulley to make sure that it is not ceased up or loose and worn out.  If the pulley is damaged the washer may not drain the water from the wash tub.

Step (5.) Clutch Assembly

Inspect the clutch assembly, used on some models, for wear to make sure that the clutch is engaging properly.  If the clutch becomes worn out the washer will not be able to spin.

Inglis Front Load Washer

Step (1.) Door Lock Switch

The door lock switch is used on a front load washer to lock the door while the washer is in operation.  The door switch is used to communicate the status of the door to the washers main control board, known as the brain of the washer.  If your front load washer won’t start a cycle, stops in the middle of a cycle or the washer will not spin, the door switch should be tested for continuity.  Visually inspect the door switch to make sure that it is not obviously damaged or broken.  If it is not broken, then you will need to test the switch for continuity using an analog multimeter or a digital meter.  If the door lock switch does have continuity and shows no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the switch does not have continuity, the part is bad and it will need to be replaced with a new door switch.  Troubleshooting tip – If you don’t have a test meter, a digital meter can be purchased fairly cheap online or from one of the bigger hardware stores.  A test meter is a real time and money saver while troubleshooting the various electrical parts on a washing machine.  Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad quickly, instead of assuming that a part is faulty and replacing it, only to find out that part wasn’t bad and the problem lies elsewhere with another part.

Step (2.) Drive Belt

You will need to inspect the washers drive belt that goes around the washer’s motor pulley and the wash tub drive pulley, if the belt is broken the washer won’t spin.  If the belt is broken, you will need to replace it with a new one to get your washer spinning again.  The belt is located inside the back of the washer cabinet and the back panel will need to be removed to gain access to the belt to remove and replace it.

Step (3.) Motor Control Unit (MCU)

A motor control unit is a hard part to troubleshoot by testing with a test meter.  You will need to visually inspect the electrical components in the motor control unit (MCU), also known as the motor control board.  Look for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted electrical component inside of the control unit.  If any obvious signs of damage are found, the motor control unit is most likely faulty and it will need to be replaced

Step (4.) Drive Motor

You will need to inspect the washers drive motor.  The motor should run quiet and turn smooth and freely.  Some common symptoms of a bad motor are, the motor is loud, the motor just hums and won’t spin, it won’t spin freely, or the motor will seize up and won’t spin at all.  If your washer’s motor has any of these symptoms the motor is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step (5.) Stator and Rotor

A stator and rotor are used on some front load washing machines.  If your washers not spinning, you will need to inspect the stator and rotor for visual signs of damage.  If the stators electrical wires or the rotors magnets are damaged or worn out, it can keep the washer’s tub from spinning or agitating properly.

Estate Dryer Is Taking Too Long To Dry

If your Estate dryer takes a long time to dry the laundry, use the following steps to help you troubleshoot the problem, find the defective part or parts and replace them, to get your dryer operating properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that clothes dryers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in dryer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!

Estate Electric Dryer

Taking Too Long to Dry

Step – (1.) Safety Note  Remember to always unplug the power cord that is designated to the dryer you are working on before you ever begin to troubleshoot or make any repairs to it.

Step – (2.) Lint Blockage – The most common reason why an Estate dryer takes too long to dry the laundry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to inspect and remove any lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.

Step – (3.) Blower Wheel – You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel and clean out any lint build up that is present.  Safety Warning – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.

Step – (4.) Heating Element – You will need to visually inspect the dryer’s heating element for damage.  If the elements coils are intact and no signs of damage are found, you will then need to test it for continuity using a multimeter or a digital meter.  If the element does not have continuity the part is defective and will need to be replaced.  Before installing the new heating element on your dryer, you will need to check for burnt or loose wires and repair them before installing the new element.  Loose wire connections or damaged or burnt wires can short out the newly installed heating element.

Step – (5.) High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s heating element housing.  The thermostat is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the heating element off if the dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter or digital meter.  If the meter shows the thermostat has continuity the part is good.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is faulty and will need to be replaced.

Step – (6.) Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally located on the dryer’s blower housing.  The thermostat is used to cycle the heating element on and off during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a digital meter or a multimeter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the meter shows that it has continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is defective and will need to be replaced.

Step – (7.) Dryer Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is defective, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.

Estate Gas Dryer

Takes Too Long Drying

Step – (1.) Safety Reminder  Please be sure that the electricity and gas have been turned off and disconnected completely from the clothes dryer before proceeding any further.

Step – (2.) Lint Blockage – The most common reason a dryer takes too long to dry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to check for lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.

Step – (3.) Blower Wheel – You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel, inside the back dryer panel, inside the blower housing.  Note – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp, unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel isn’t packed with lint build up, next make sure it is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.

Step – (4.) Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board, telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is defective, the clothes dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving your clothes damp or continue to run after the laundry has finished drying.

Step – (5.) Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally mounted on the dryer’s blower housing.  It is used to cycle the gas burner off and on during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a multimeter or digital meter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the test shows that it does have continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part has failed and will need to be replaced.

Step – (6) High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s burner assembly.  It is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the burner off if the clothes dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a digital meter or a multimeter.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is defective and will need to be replaced with a new one.

Step – (7) Ignition Coils – The ignition coils are also referred to as the gas valve solenoid coils, they are mounted just in front of the gas burner assembly.  Their sole function is to open the gas valve and let the gas flow into the burner assembly.  If you can see that the igniter is glowing red hot and the burner won’t light, it is likely that one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils have failed and will need to be replaced.

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