If your Admiral stove is not heating, use the following troubleshooting steps to help you locate the problem and repair or replace the faulty parts to get your stove heating up and working properly again.
WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any stove yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death. Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it. If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it. Be aware that stoves have extremely sharp edges and hot parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death. Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in stove repairs besides those listed above. We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further. Think safety first!
Admiral Gas Stove
Step-1. Stove Oven Igniter
The stove oven igniter, also known as the glow bar, is used on some free-standing gas stove models. It is located under the burner shield inside the bottom part of the stove’s oven compartment, mounted right next to the gas burner tube. The igniter is used to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas to flame for heat. As the igniter draws electrical current it will heat to a high temperature and glow red hot, as well as cause the bi metal in the ovens safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited into flame. The igniter can become weak over time. If you can see that your igniter is glowing, but will not light the gas to flame it may need to be replaced. If the igniter does not glow at all, it is faulty and will need to be replaced to fix the problem. You can test the igniter for continuity using a digital meter or an analog meter. If the test shows no continuity, the igniter will need to be replaced, if the igniter has continuity, it is good and more troubleshooting will need to be performed. Troubleshooting tip – If you don’t have a test meter, a digital meter can be purchased reasonably cheap online or from one of the bigger hardware stores. A test meter is a real time and money saver while troubleshooting the electrical parts used on a stove. Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad very fast, instead of just assuming that a part is faulty and replacing it, only to find out that part wasn’t bad and the problem lies elsewhere with another faulty stove part.
Step-1. Spark Electrode
Modern gas stoves use some form of electronic ignition system, such as the spark electrode or an igniter system. These ignition systems have replaced the older stove style gas flame pilot lights. Stove models using a spark ignition system also have an actual gas pilot like a pilot ignition system, only the pilot does not stay lit all the time. Instead, when the stoves thermostat is turned on, gas flows to the stove’s safety valve and also to the ranges pilot, which gets lit with a spark. Once the pilot is lit and the safety valve’s sensor bulb senses the pilot flame, that valve will then open, allowing the gas to flow to the stoves burner where the pilot flame ignites the gas burner. If the spark electrode is weak or no longer works at all, the stove will not light. The repair solution is to replace the spark electrode if this is the case with your unit.
Step-3. Thermostat
The thermostat is used on some gas stove models to control the temperature inside of the oven compartment. When the desired temperature has been reached, the thermostat will turn off the heat source. When the oven’s temperature begins to fall, the thermostat will cycle the heat back on. The most common symptoms of a faulty thermostat are, undercooked food or an oven that either won’t turn on or turn off. Safety Precaution Note – Please be sure that your stove has had plenty of time to cool down before testing or removing any internal or external parts. Some stove parts can hold heat for quite some time and will still burn you long after the appliance has been shut off.
Step-4. Safety Valve
If your stove’s oven igniter comes on, glows red hot for 90 seconds but does not light the burner, you will need to test the safety valve for continuity. You can test the safety valve for continuity using a digital meter or an analog meter. If the test shows no continuity, the valve will need to be replaced. If the valve does have continuity, it is good and more troubleshooting will need to be performed. Safety Reminder – You will need to be sure to turn off the gas that is dedicated to your gas stove before you begin to remove this part.
Step-5. Stove Electronic Control Board
You will need to inspect your stoves electronic control board. The control board is a very difficult part to test. You can visually inspect the control board for a loose wire harness connection or a melted or burnt component on both sides of the control board. If any of the mentioned damage is found, the control board may be faulty. The stove control board is a very intricate electrical part, sometimes a hairline fracture in a solder joint can cause the board to fail, you won’t even be able to see the fracture in the solder with the naked eye.
Admiral Electric Stove
Step-1. Incoming Electrical Power
First, you will need to check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker in your homes main circuit breaker box. If a fuse has blown, you will need to replace the faulty fuse with a new one, if you find the circuit breaker that is designated to your stove has tripped, you will need to flip the circuit breaker back to the on position to restore the electricity for the stove.
Step-2. Blown Fuse
On some stove models an internal fuse is used to shut the stove off to prevent any further damage to the unit. If the fuse is blown, the stove won’t turn on, the fuse can be tested using an analog or digital test meter, if the test shows the fuse does not have continuity, the part is faulty and will need to be replaced. Before replacing the faulty fuse with a new one, you will need to inspect or troubleshoot the various components within the stove to determine what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. Visually inspect the internal and external stove parts, look for burnt wires, burnt wire connectors, signs of damage on the heating elements and the elements terminal connections.
Step-3. Bake Element
The bake element is located on the bottom part of the interior cavity on slide in and free-standing stoves. If you have noticed that your electric stove is not heating while you are trying to bake, the bake element may have burned out. You can test the element for continuity using a test meter. If the test shows that the element does not have continuity, the element will need to be replaced to fix the problem, if the element does have continuity, it is good, and more troubleshooting will need to be performed. Safety Note – Please be sure that your stove has had plenty of time to cool down before testing or removing any internal or external parts. Some stove parts can hold heat for quite some time and can still burn you long after the appliance has been shut off.
Step-4. Broiling Element
The broiling element is located on the inside of the oven cavity at the very top and is used to broil with. Quite often the broiling element is used to help preheat an electric stoves oven faster. If your element has stopped working you will need to visually inspect it for signs of damage, such as burn marks, bubbling or blistering, burnt or melted terminal ends or a broken spot in the element. A broiler element can be tested for continuity using a digital or analog multimeter, If the test shows no continuity, the broiling element will need to be replaced to fix the problem. If the test shows the element has continuity, it is good and more troubleshooting will need to be performed. Safety Reminder – Please keep in mind that just because a heating element is not glowing red hot, doesn’t mean that it isn’t hot, it can still burn you. You will want to be sure to wear safety gloves while inspecting or troubleshooting any of the parts on your stove.
Step-5. Surface Coil Element
The surface coil element is used on the stove top surface of some electric free standing and slide-in stove models. If you have a stove top surface coil element that is not heating up, you can test the part for continuity using a test meter. If the heating element has continuity the part is good, if the test shows no continuity, the element is bad, the solution is to replace the broken surface element to fix the problem. Troubleshooting tip – If you do not have access to a test meter, a digital meter can be purchased reasonably cheap online or from one of the bigger hardware stores, a test meter can be a real time and money saver when you are troubleshooting the numerous parts on an electric stove. Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad quickly, instead of just guessing that a part could be faulty and replacing it, only to find out later that the part wasn’t bad and the problem is with another broken stove part
Step-6. Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor is used on newer model electronic control stoves, it is used to sense the temperature inside of the stove’s oven compartment. The sensor communicates with the stoves electronic control board, which adjusts the temperature as necessary. On a newer model stove, a fault code should display on the control panel if the temperature sensor has failed. You will need to refer to your owner’s manual, under the stove fault codes.
Step-7. Electronic Control Board
You will need to Inspect your stoves electronic control board, the control board is a very difficult part to test, you can visually inspect the control board for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted component on the control board. If any of the mentioned damage is found, the control board may be faulty. The control board is a very intricate electrical part, sometimes a hairline fracture in a solder spot can cause the board to fail, you won’t even be able to see the fracture in the solder with the naked eye.