Estate Refrigerator Will Not Get Cold

If your Estate refrigerator’s not getting cold enough, use these nine troubleshooting steps to help you locate and repair the problem, to get your refrigerator functioning properly and cold again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any refrigerator yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that refrigerators have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in refrigerator repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Estate Refrigerator Help

Step – (1.) Dirty Condenser Coils

The condenser coils are located under the refrigerator, behind the kickplate/grill at the very bottom of the fridge.  If the condenser coils become clogged with dust and pet hair etcetera, there won’t be sufficient air flow being moved by the condenser fan across the coils.  If the coils can’t release the heat, the refrigerator will strain to stay cool.  You can remove the kickplate from the bottom of the refrigerator and clean it if it is needed, then inspect the condenser coils for dust buildup, if there is buildup present, it will need to be removed.  You can remove the dust using a vacuum hose and small attachment or a long narrow refrigerator coil brush, which can be purchased fairly cheap from your larger hardware stores.  You will need to be careful not to damage any of the electrical wires or components on the compressor or damage the condenser motors fan blades.  This should really be done at least once a year if you have pets that shed in the house or live in a dusty environment.

Step – (2.) Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor is used in side-by-side refrigerators and refrigerators with a top or bottom freezer to circulate air over the evaporator coils which converts heat from the coils into cold air that is then circulated throughout the refrigerator from the spinning fan blade.  The evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer compartment on a refrigerator.  The most common symptoms of a faulty evaporator fan motor are, the refrigerator is warm, the refrigerator is noisy, the freezer compartment is too warm, or both the fridge and freezer are too warm.

Step – (3.) Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor is located in the very bottom part of the refrigerator behind the access panel on the back side of the fridge.  It is used to draw cool air through the front grill and circulate the air around the compressor and through the condenser coils, then moving the hot air out into the room.  It also aids in evaporating water from the drain pan beneath the fridge.  Some typical symptoms of a bad condenser fan motor are, the refrigerator is warm, the fan turns slower than normal, the compressor is noisy or the freezer is warm.

Step – (4.) Temperature Control or Cold Control

Check the cold control knob/dial located in the refrigerator section, is it set at too warm of a position?  If so, this will not allow the fridge to operate often enough to stay cold, try turning the dial to a colder position.  Repair Note The refrigerator cold control dial should only be turned about 1/8 of a turn in a 24-hour period, you will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the refrigerators temperature correctly, you can purchase a refrigerator thermometer fairly cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggests the cold control knobs indicator dial be set at the mid-range, 12 o’clock position.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator for safe food storage is in between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will freeze, any warmer than 40 degrees F food will start to spoil quickly.  Adjust the cold control knob 1/8 of a turn every 24 hours, and take notes of how much colder the fridge has become and repeat the process until you hit the optimum temperature range, between 34 degrees F and 40 degrees F.

Step – (5.) Overloading The Shelves

If the refrigerator shelves have been overloaded with food, sometimes this can block the normal cold air flow into the fridge’s cabinet from the air inlet damper, thus not allowing the cold air to circulate into the refrigerator section.  Overstocking the shelves can also disrupt the refrigerator’s air flow system, not allowing the cool air to circulate properly the way the refrigerator was designed to do.

Step – (6.) Refrigerator Door Gasket

The refrigerator may be warm caused by a faulty door gasket.  If the refrigerator’s door gasket is not making a proper seal between the fridge’s door and the console, this will let the cold air escape and the room temperature air to enter.  Visually inspect around the door and make sure that the gasket is sealed correctly into position and does not have any folds, creases or gaps anywhere.  This usually happens around the corners of the door gasket.  If the gasket is damaged, it will need to be replaced to solve the problem.

Step – (7.) Door Light Switch

The door switches operate the lights in both the refrigerator and freezer’s food compartments, the light switch also operates the evaporator fan motor in the freezer section.  When the refrigerator door is open, this releases the switch to the off position and the evaporator fan shuts off.  If the light switch has failed, the evaporator fan won’t be able to circulate the cold air into the refrigerator cabinet.  Test the light switch for continuity using an analog multimeter or a digital meter, if the switch has continuity, it is good.  If the test shows that it does not have continuity, it is faulty and the switch will need to be replaced.

Step – (8.) Light Stays On

If the refrigerator’s interior light stays on, this can cause the refrigerator to be warm.  You can test the light switch for continuity using a digital or analog multimeter, if the test shows the switch has continuity, it is good.  If the test shows no continuity, the switch is faulty and will need to be replaced.

Step – (9.) Excessive Use

If the refrigerator is being used more often than normal, repeated door openings in a short amount of time will cause the temperature in the fridge to rise temporarily, then cool back down to normal operating temperature the longer the refrigerator door stays shut.

 

Electrolux Dishwasher Will Not Drain

If your Electrolux dishwasher’s not draining the water out, follow these seven troubleshooting steps to help you isolate the drainage problem, repair or replace the defective part or parts and get your dishwasher to drain properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dishwasher yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that dishwashers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved with a dishwasher repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Electrolux Dishwasher

Step – (1.) Filter

Troubleshooting the dishwasher’s filter.  Some models have a self-cleaning filter, if yours does not and the filter is dirty and clogged with food debris, this is more than likely the reason why your dishwasher won’t drain the water from the tub.  The filter will be located at the bottom center inside of the dishwasher.  You will need to remove the filter from the dishwasher to clean it, using soap and warm water to give the filter a good cleaning.  After you have cleaned the filter, reinstall it and try to drain the water out of the dishwasher.  If the water still won’t drain out, more troubleshooting will need to be performed.  Maintenance Tip: cleaning the filter in your dishwasher should be regular maintenance for optimum dishwasher performance, just as you empty your dryer’s lint filter for maximum air flow.

Step – (2.) Garbage Disposal

If your dishwasher’s drain hose is plumbed into your garbage disposal, you will need to inspect the inside of the disposal for food build up and blockage that would prevent the water in the dishwasher from draining properly.  Safety Warning – Never put your hands inside of a garbage disposal, even when the electrical power has been turned off.

Step – (3.) Drain Hose

You will need to disconnect the drain hose from the garbage disposal and the pump, inspect both ends and the hose itself for blockage.

Step – (4.) Drain Pump

Inspect the drain pump ports, impeller and hoses for blockage or lodged debris, such as food particle build up or small pieces of plastic, etcetera.  If you do not find any blockage, you will need to diagnose the pump motor to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter.  if the motor has continuity the motor is good.  If the motor does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced with a new one.

Step – (5.) Drain Solenoid

Troubleshooting the drain solenoid valve, (only used on some dishwasher models,) it may not be opening to let the water drain out.  You can test the solenoid for continuity using a digital or analog test meter.  If the drain solenoid has continuity it is good.  If the solenoid does not have continuity, the part is faulty and will need to be replaced to fix the problem.

Step – (6.) Check Valve

Troubleshooting the check valve, (used on some models only,) to make sure that valve flap is free and not stuck in the shut position.  The check ball is located on the inside bottom part of the dishwasher, in the sump housing.

Step – (7.) Check Ball

Troubleshooting the check ball, (also only used on some models,) to make sure that the ball is free and not stuck in the shut position.  The check ball is located on the inside bottom part of the dishwasher, in the sump housing.

 

 

Kenmore Dishwasher is Leaking

If your Kenmore dishwasher’s leaking water, use the following seven troubleshooting steps to help you locate where the leak is coming from.  So you can repair or replace the defective part or parts and get your dishwasher to function properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dishwasher yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that dishwashers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved with a dishwasher repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Kenmore Dishwasher

Leaking Water

 

Step – (1.) Door Gasket

If your Kenmore dishwasher’s leaking water from around the door, you will need to troubleshoot the dishwasher’s door gasket.  Is the rubber dried out and getting hard?  Visually inspect for rips, tears or small holes in the gasket seal.  Replace the door gasket if any of the mentioned damage is found.

Step – (2.) Water Inlet Valve

You will need to inspect the water inlet valve.  If the inlet valve is stuck in the open position, the valve will over fill the dishwasher and cause it to leak water through the bottom of the door.  If the valve is stuck in the on position, you will need to replace the valve to solve the problem.

Step – (3.) Hoses and Clamps

Inspect all of the hoses, hose ends and hose clamps.  Are the hose ends all connected securely with the clamps?  If you see any corrosion or white calcium build up around the hose clamps, this is a good sign of a leak.  You might be able to tighten the clamp, but it is best to replace it with a new one.  Be sure that you turn the water off to the dishwasher before removing any hose clamps or hoses.

Step – (4.) Spray Arm

A cracked or damaged dishwasher wash arm could be the reason why your dishwasher is leaking water from around the door.  Inspect the spray arms for damage and replace them if any is found.

Step – (5.) Sump Seal

If water is leaking from the center bottom section of the dishwasher, you will need to examine the sump seal for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the pump gasket and motor shaft seal and replace if they are leaking.  If you have diagnosed that the sump has a faulty seal, it will need to be replaced with a new seal.

Step – (6.) Drain Pump Gasket

If there is water leaking from the center bottom section of the dishwasher, you will need to examine the pump gasket for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the sump seal and motor shaft seal and replace if they are leaking.  If you have diagnosed that the pump gasket is faulty, it will need to be replaced with a new gasket.

Step – (7.) Motor Shaft Seal

If you can see that water is leaking from the center bottom section of your dishwasher, you will need to visually inspect the motor shaft seal for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the sump seal and pump gasket for leaks and replace them if they are leaking.  If you have verified that the motor shaft seal is bad, it will need to be replaced with a new seal.

Frigidaire Dryer Taking Too Long To Dry

If your Frigidaire dryer’s taking too long to dry your clothes, use the following troubleshooting steps to help you isolate the problem, locate the faulty part or parts and fix or replace them, to get your dryer drying properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that clothes dryers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in dryer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!

Frigidaire Electric Dryer

Takes a Long Time Drying

Step – (1.) Safety Reminder

Remember to always unplug the power cord that is designated to the dryer you are working on before you ever begin to troubleshoot or make any repairs to it.

Step – (2.) Lint Blockage

The most common reason a Frigidaire dryer takes too long to dry clothes is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to inspect and remove any lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.

Step – (3.) Heating Element

You will need to visually inspect the dryer’s heating element for damage.  If the elements coils are intact and no signs of damage are found, you will then need to test it for continuity using a multimeter or a digital meter.  If the element does not have continuity the part is bad and will need to be replaced.  Before installing the new heating element on your dryer, you will need to check for burnt or loose wires and repair them before installing the new element.  Loose wire connections or damaged or burnt wires can short out the newly installed heating element.

Step – (4.) Blower Wheel

You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel and clean out any lint build up that is present.  Repair Note – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.

Step – (5.) High-Limit Thermostat

The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s heating element housing.  The thermostat is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the heating element off if the dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter or digital meter.  If the meter shows the thermostat has continuity the part is good.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step – (6.) Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat is normally located on the dryer’s blower housing.  The thermostat is used to cycle the heating element on and off during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a digital meter or a multimeter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the meter shows that it has continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step – (7.) Dryer Moisture Sensor 

The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is faulty, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.

Frigidaire Gas Dryer

Takes Too Long Drying

Step – (1.) Safety Precaution

Please be sure that the electricity and gas have been turned off and disconnected completely from the clothes dryer before proceeding any further.

Step – (2.) Lint Blockage

The most common reason a dryer takes too long to dry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to check for lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.

Step – (3.) Blower Wheel

You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel, inside the back dryer panel, inside the blower housing.  Safety Note – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp, unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel isn’t packed with lint build up, next make sure it is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.

Step – (4.) Moisture Sensor

The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board, telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is bad, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.

Step – (5.) Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat is normally mounted on the dryer’s blower housing.  It is used to cycle the gas burner off and on during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a multimeter or digital meter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the test shows that it does have continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part has failed and will need to be replaced.

Step – (6.) High-Limit Thermostat

The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s burner assembly.  It is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the burner off if the clothes dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a digital meter or a multimeter.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is faulty and will need to be replaced with a new one.

Step – (7.) Ignition Coils

The ignition coils are also referred to as the gas valve solenoid coils, they are mounted just in front of the gas burner assembly.  Their sole function is to open the gas valve and let the gas flow into the burner assembly.  If you can see that the igniter is glowing red hot and the burner won’t light, it is likely that one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils have failed and will need to be replaced.

Whirlpool Refrigerator Is Getting Too Cold

If you’ve you noticed your Whirlpool refrigerator’s getting too cold and freezing some of the fresh foods, use these four troubleshooting steps to help you locate and repair the problem.  It might be as easy as turning two knobs to adjust the temperature setting to get your fridge cooling at the proper temperature again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any refrigerator yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that refrigerators have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in refrigerator repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Whirlpool Refrigerator Help

Step – (1.) Air Damper Control

If your Whirlpool refrigerator’s getting too cold, you might have noticed some items in the refrigerator compartment are frozen.  The air damper control, also known as the air inlet damper, air baffle or diffuser is used to balance the cold air flow from the evaporator housing to the refrigerator’s fresh food holding section, on most models.  The inlet damper is made of plastic, with louvers like window blinds and is usually located on the interior wall of the fresh food compartment toward the bottom of the fridge.  The control knob for the damper is located next to the fridge’s cold control knob.  It might have freezer printed above or below it, it will be the knob (without) the off-position option.  Is the knob set on too cold of a position?  If so, move the knob a little bit to the warmer position.  You should be able to open and close the damper by adjusting the damper control knob.  If the damper diffuser is broken it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator, freezing the fresh food.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator for safe food storage is between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will start to freeze, if the temperature is any warmer than 40 degrees F the food will start to spoil.  You will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the fridges temperature correctly.  You can purchase a refrigerator thermometer fairly cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggests that the air inlet damper knobs indicator dial be set at the mid-range, straight up 12 o’clock position.

Step – (2.) Cold Control or Temperature Control

You will need to check the cold control knob or dial located in the refrigerator cabinet, is it set at too cold of a position?  If so, try turning the dial to a warmer position.  Service Note – The refrigerator cold control dial should only be turned about 1/8 of a turn in a 24-hour period.  You will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the refrigerator’s temperature correctly.  You can purchase a refrigerator thermometer reasonably cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggested setting for the temperature control is mid-range, this means that the indicator on the knob should point in the 12 o’clock position.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator should be between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit for safe food storage.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will freeze, any warmer than 40 degrees F food will start to spoil quickly.  Adjust the cold control knob 1/8 of a turn every 24 hours and take notes of how much colder the fridge has become and repeat the process until you hit the optimum temperature range, between 34- and 40-degrees Fahrenheit.

Step – (3.) Thermistor Or Temperature Sensor

If your refrigerator is equipped with an electronic control board the temperature is going to be controlled by a thermistor.  This part is usually located near the fridge’s air inlet, the thermistor senses the temperature and relays it back to the refrigerator’s electronic control board.  The control board will then monitor the temperature and will make the necessary adjustments to the cold air inlet damper as they are needed.  The temperature sensor could be faulty if it’s too cold in the fridge compartment.

Step – (4.) Refrigerator Main Control Board

A faulty main control board could be the reason why the refrigerator is too cold.  The control board is used to control a number of a refrigerator’s parts and functions.  The control board is a very difficult part to test.  You can visually inspect the fridge’s control board for burnt spots, melted relays, solder joints or any other obvious signs of electrical damage and replace the board if you see any of the mentioned damage.  Electronic control boards aren’t cheap, some control boards can be pretty pricy.  Only after troubleshooting all of the other refrigerator’s components that could be at fault for the reason your refrigerator is getting too cold, should you suspect the electronic control board to be the main culprit.

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