Samsung Oven Won’t Heat

If your Samsung oven’s not heating when you turn it on, use the following troubleshooting steps to help you isolate the problem, find the faulty part or parts and repair or replace them to get your oven to heat up properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any oven yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that oven’s have extremely sharp edges and hot parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in oven repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Samsung Electric Oven

Step – (1.) Incoming Electrical Power

First, you will need to check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker in your home’s main circuit breaker box.  If a fuse has blown, you will need to replace the fuse with a new one.  If you find that the circuit breaker has tripped to the off position, flip the breaker back to the on position.

Step – (2.) Blown Oven Fuse

On some oven models an internal fuse is used to shut the oven off to prevent any further damage to the appliance.  If the fuse has blown, the oven won’t turn on.  The fuse can be tested using a multimeter.  If the fuse does not have continuity, the part is faulty and will need to be replaced.  Before replacing the fuse with a new one, you will need to inspect or troubleshoot the various components within the oven to determine what caused the fuse to blow.  Visually inspect the internal oven components, look for burnt wires, burnt wire connectors, signs of damage on the heating elements and the elements connections.

Step – (3.) Bake Element

The bake element is located on the bottom part of the interior cavity on free standing and wall ovens. If you have noticed that your electric oven won’t heat while you are trying to bake, the baking element may have burned out.  You can test the element for continuity using a digital meter or multimeter.  If the test shows no continuity, the baking element will need to be replaced to fix the problem.  If the element has continuity, it is good, and more troubleshooting will need to be performed.  Safety Warning – Please be sure that your oven has had plenty of time to cool down before testing or removing any internal or external parts.  Some oven parts can hold heat for quite some time and will still burn you long after the unit has been turned off.

Step – (4.) Broil Element

The broil element is located on the inside of the oven cavity at the top and is used for broiling.  Quite often the broiler element is used to help preheat an electric oven faster.  If your element has stopped working you will need to visually inspect it for signs of damage, such as burn marks, bubbling or blistering, burnt or melted terminal ends or a broken spot in the element.  A broiling element can be tested for continuity using a digital or analog multimeter.  If the test shows no continuity, the broil element will need to be replaced to fix the problem.  If the test shows the element has continuity, it is good and more troubleshooting will need to be performed.  Safety Note – Please keep in mind that just because a broiling element does not look hot, does not mean that it isn’t hot, it can still burn you.  You will want to be sure to wear safety gloves while inspecting or troubleshooting any of your oven’s parts.

Step – (5.) Surface Heating Element

The surface heating element is used on the cooktop surface of some electric free standing and slide-in oven models.  If your surface element is not heating, you can test the part for continuity with a multimeter.  If the element has continuity, it is good, if the test shows no continuity, the element is bad.  The solution is to replace the broken surface element to fix the problem.  Troubleshooting tip If you don’t have a test meter, one can be purchased reasonably cheap from your local hardware store.  A test meter can be a real time and money saver while troubleshooting all of the various electrical parts used on an oven.  Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad quickly, instead of just assuming that a heating element is faulty and replacing it, only to find out the element wasn’t bad and the problem lies elsewhere with another faulty oven part.

Step – (6.) Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor is used on newer model electronic control ovens.  It is used to sense the temperature inside of the oven.  The sensor communicates with the oven’s electronic control board which adjusts the temperature as necessary.  On newer model ovens, a fault code should display on the control panel if the temperature sensor has failed.  You will need to refer to your owner’s manual, under oven fault codes.

Step – (7.) Electronic Oven Control Board

You will need to inspect your oven’s electronic control board.  The control board is a very difficult part to test.  You can visually inspect the control board for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted component on the control board.  If any of the mentioned damage is found, the control board may be faulty.  The control board is a very intricate electrical part, sometimes a hairline fracture in a solder spot can cause the board to fail, you won’t even be able to see the fracture in the solder with the naked eye.

Samsung Gas Oven

Step – (1.) Oven Igniter

The oven igniter, also known as the glow bar, is used in some free standing and wall gas oven models.  It is located under the burner shield inside the bottom part of the oven compartment, mounted right next to the gas burner tube.  The igniter is used to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas to flame for heat.   As the igniter draws electrical current it will heat to a high temperature and glow red hot, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven’s safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited into flame.  The igniter can become weak over time.  If you can see that your oven igniter is glowing but will not light the gas to flame, it may need to be replaced.  If the igniter does not glow at all, it is faulty and will need to be replaced to fix the problem.  You can test the igniter for continuity using a digital meter or multimeter.  If the test shows no continuity, the igniter will need to be replaced, if the igniter has continuity, it is good and more troubleshooting will need to be performed.  Repair tip – If you don’t have a test meter, a digital meter can be purchased reasonably cheap online or from one of the bigger hardware stores.  A test meter is a real time and money saver while troubleshooting the electrical parts used on an oven.  Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad very quickly.  Instead of just assuming that a part is faulty and replacing it, only to find out that part wasn’t bad and the problem lies elsewhere with another faulty oven part.

Step – (2.) Spark Electrode

Modern gas oven’s use some form of electronic ignition system, such as the spark electrode or an igniter system.  These ignition systems have replaced the older oven style gas flame pilot lights.  Oven models using a spark ignition system also have an actual gas pilot like a pilot ignition system only the pilot does not stay lit all the time.  Instead, when the oven’s thermostat is turned on, gas flows to the oven’s safety valve and also to the oven’s pilot, which gets lit with a spark.  Once the pilot is lit and the safety valve’s sensor bulb senses the pilot flame, that valve will then open, allowing the gas to flow to the oven’s burner where the pilot flame ignites the gas burner.  If the spark electrode is weak or no longer works at all the oven will not light, the repair solution is to replace the spark electrode if this is the case.

Step – (3.) Thermostat

The thermostat is used on some gas oven models to control the temperature inside of the oven.  When the desired temperature has been reached, the thermostat will turn off the heat source.  When the oven’s temperature begins to fall, the thermostat will cycle the heat back on.  The most common symptoms of a faulty thermostat are undercooked food or an oven that either won’t turn on or turn off.  Safety Reminder  Please be sure that your oven has had plenty of time to cool down before testing or removing any internal or external parts.  Some oven parts can hold heat for quite sometime and will still burn you long after the unit has been turned off.

Step – (4.) Safety Valve

If the oven’s igniter comes on, glows red hot for 90 seconds and does not light the burner, you will need to test the safety valve for continuity.  You can test the safety valve for continuity using a digital meter or multimeter.  If the test shows no continuity, the valve will need to be replaced, if the valve does have continuity it is good, and more troubleshooting will need to be performed.  Safety Note  You will need to be sure to turn off the gas that is dedicated to your gas oven before you begin to remove this part.

Step – (5.) Oven Electronic Control Board

You will need to Inspect your oven’s electronic control board.  The control board is a very difficult part to test.  You can visually inspect the control board for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted component on the control board.  If any of the mentioned damage is found, the control board may be faulty.  The oven’s electronic control board is a very intricate electrical part.  Sometimes a hairline fracture in a solder spot can cause the board to fail, you won’t even be able to see the fracture in the solder with the naked eye.

Frigidaire Dishwasher Leaking Water

If your Frigidaire dishwasher’s leaking water, follow these seven troubleshooting steps to help you isolate the leak, repair or replace the defective part or parts to get your dishwasher functioning properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dishwasher yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that dishwashers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved with a dishwasher repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Frigidaire Dishwasher

Step – (1.) Door Gasket

If your Frigidaire dishwasher is leaking water from around the door, you will need to troubleshoot the dishwasher’s door gasket.  Is the rubber dried out and getting hard?  Visually inspect for rips, tears or small holes in the gasket seal.  Replace the door gasket if any of the mentioned damage is found.

Step – (2.) Hoses

Inspect all of the hoses, hose ends and hose clamps.  Are the hose ends all connected securely with the clamps?  If you see any corrosion or white calcium build up around the hose clamps, this is a good sign of a leak.  You might be able to tighten the clamp, but it is best to replace it with a new one.  Be sure that you turn the water off to the dishwasher before removing any hose clamps or hoses.

Step – (3.) Water Inlet Valve

Inspect the water inlet valve.  If the inlet valve is stuck in the open position, the valve will over fill the dishwasher and cause it to leak water through the bottom of the door.  If the valve is stuck in the on position, you will need to replace the valve to solve the problem.

Step – (4.) Spray Arm

A cracked or damaged dishwasher wash arm could be the reason why your dishwasher is leaking water from around the door.  Inspect the spray arms for damage and replace them if any is found.

Step – (5.) Sump Seal

If water is leaking from the center bottom section of the dishwasher, you will need to examine the sump seal for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the pump gasket and motor shaft seal and replace if they are leaking.  If you have diagnosed that the sump has a faulty seal, it will need to be replaced with a new seal.

Step – (6.) Drain Pump Gasket

If there is water leaking from the center bottom section of the dishwasher, you will need to examine the pump gasket for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the sump seal and motor shaft seal and replace if they are leaking.  If you have diagnosed that the pump gasket is faulty, it will need to be replaced with a new gasket.

Step – (7.) Motor Shaft Seal

If you can see that water is leaking from the center bottom section of your dishwasher, you will need to visually inspect the motor shaft seal for leaks.  If it is not leaking, examine the sump seal and pump gasket for leaks and replace them if they are leaking.  If you have verified that the motor shaft seal is bad, it will need to be replaced with a new seal.

Hotpoint Refrigerator Won’t Run

If your Hotpoint refrigerator’s not running and it will not start, follow these four troubleshooting steps to help you isolate where the problem is so you can repair or replace the defective part or parts and get your refrigerator up and running again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any refrigerator yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that refrigerators have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved with a refrigerator repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Hotpoint Refrigerator

Step – (1.) Incoming Power

If your Hotpoint refrigerator will not run or the compressor is not kicking on, first you will need to begin by troubleshooting the simple repair solutions.  Step – (1) Open the refrigerator door to see if the interior light is working, if the refrigerator light is working, you can move on to step – (2), If the interior light is not coming on and the fridge is not running you will need look for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker in your home’s main circuit breaker box.   If you do not have a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker you will need to test the electrical wall outlet with a voltmeter.  If you do not have a test meter, try plugging something else that runs on 110 volts into the outlet to see if the outlet is faulty or working properly.  If you do have a test meter, the wall receptacle test should check at 115V plus or minus 10 percent.  If the receptacle is bad you will need to replace it with a new one.

Step – (2.) Overload or Relay Start Capacitor

If you can hear a clicking sound coming from the bottom of the refrigerator and you can see the fan working but the compressor is not kicking on, it could be that either the start relay or the run capacitor have failed, they are both mounted onto the side of the refrigerator’s compressor.  The start relay is used to help start the compressor, it is used as a jump start device.  If the overload or relay start capacitor is not working the compressor will not start running.

Step – (3.) Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat is located inside of the refrigerator section.  You will need to look for the control dial that has the word off printed on the face of it.  This is the control that turns the compressor on and off.  Now go ahead and turn the dial or knob to the off position, then turn it back to the on position.  Did the compressor kick back on?   If the compressor did not start you will need to test the thermostat using a test meter.  Testing the temperature control thermostat – Place the meter probes on the thermostat’s terminals, set the range scale on (R x I) and test the part for continuity.  With the control dial set in the off position, you should not read any continuity, when the control dial is set to the highest position, you should read continuity on the meter.  If the control thermostat does not have any continuity, it will need to be replaced with a new part.  If the test shows that it does have continuity, more troubleshooting will need to be performed on the refrigerator.

Step – (4.) Electronic Circuit Control Board

You will need to inspect the refrigerators electronic control board, only used on some modern refrigerator models.  The circuit control board can be a very difficult part to test.  The board is a very intricate electrical part, sometimes a hairline fracture in a tiny, soldered spot can cause the whole board to fail.  You won’t even be able to see the fracture in the solder without using a magnifying glass.  You can visually inspect both the front and back sides of the control board.  You should be looking for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted electrical component on the control board.  If any obvious damage to the board is found, the part is more than likely faulty and will need to be replaced with a new part.

Jenn Air Dryer Won’t Heat

If your Jenn Air dryer’s not heating up, follow these troubleshooting steps to help you isolate the problem, find the faulty part or parts and repair or replace them so your dryer will heat properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that clothes dryers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in dryer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!

Jenn Air Electric Dryer

Step – (1.) Circuit Breaker – The first thing you should check if your electric Jenn Air dryer won’t heat is the dryer’s 220 circuit breaker located in the home’s main circuit breaker box.   You will need to locate the breaker box and find the 220 breaker that is dedicated for your dryer.  Flip the breaker off and on a few times even if it looks like the breaker is already in the on position.  A standard size electric clothes dryer runs on 220 volts and if half of the two-pole breaker is tripped the dryer motor will run on 110 volts but the heating element will not heat up.  If your clothes dryer still won’t heat up after flipping the breaker switch, some further troubleshooting will need to be performed on the dryer itself.

Step – (2.) Safety Reminder – Please be certain that the electricity has been turned off or disconnected completely to the dryer that you are repairing, please double check before you proceed to troubleshoot any further.

Step – (3.) Thermal Fuse – The dryer thermal fuse is also known as the thermal cutoff fuse and the temperature fuse.  The thermal fuse is used as a safety device cutting off the electricity to the dryer’s drive motor and the heating element to keep the clothes dryer from getting too hot.  Note – Once this fuse has blown, it cannot be reused.  If your dryer’s thermal fuse has blown, you will need to check for lint build up or blockage in the clothes dryer’s lint filter, vent hose or ventilation system, before installing a new thermal fuse, only to have it blow out again.  Lint build up prevents proper air flow in a dryer and is the most common reason for a dryer’s thermal fuse to blow.

Step – (4.) Heating Element – The heating element is used to heat the air before it enters into the drum on an electric dryer.  If your electric dryer is not heating, you will need to visually inspect the element for damage.  If the element coils are intact and no signs of damage are found, you will need to test the element for continuity using a multimeter.  If the element does not have continuity the part is bad and will need to be replaced.  Before installing the new heating element, you will need to check for loose or burnt wires that lead to the heating element and repair or replace them before connecting the wires onto the new element.  Loose wire connections and burnt or damaged wires can cause the newly installed element to short out.

Step – (5.) Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally located on the clothes dryer’s blower housing.  The thermostat is used to cycle the heating element off and on during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a test meter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity, if the test shows that it does have continuity the thermostat is good.  If the test shows that the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is bad and will have to be replaced with a new thermostat.

Step – (6.) High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s heating element housing.  It is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the heating element off if the clothes dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a test meter, if the thermostat has continuity the part is good.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is bad and will have to be replaced with a new thermostat.

Jenn Air Gas Dryer

Step – (1.) Safety Precaution – Please be certain that the electricity and the gas have been turned off or disconnected to the gas dryer that you are repairing.  Please double check before proceeding to troubleshoot any further.

Step – (2.) Thermal Fuse – The dryer’s thermal fuse is also known as the thermal cutoff fuse and the temperature fuse.  The fuse is used as a safety mechanism, cutting off electricity to the dryer motor and the burner assembly to keep the clothes dryer from getting too hot.  The fuse can be tested using a test meter.  If the fuse does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step – (3.) Igniter – The igniter is located inside of the burner assembly in a gas dryer.  It is used to ignite the gas into flame for heat.  If the igniter is bad, the gas will not light and the clothes dryer won’t heat up.  Using a digital meter or multimeter you will need to test the igniter to see if it has continuity.  If the test shows that it does have continuity, the igniter is good.  If the igniter does not have continuity, then the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step – (4.) Gas Valve Solenoid Coils – The gas valve solenoid coils, also referred to as the ignition coils, are mounted just in front of the gas burner assembly.  Their function is to open the gas valve to let gas flow into the burner assembly.  If you can see that the igniter is glowing red hot and the burner does not light, it is likely that one or both of the coils are bad.  Solution – replace both of the ignition coils.

Step – (5.) High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s burner assembly.  It is used to monitor the temperature in the dryer and will shut the burner off if the dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a digital meter or a multimeter.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced with a new one.

Step – (6.) Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally mounted on the clothes dryer’s blower housing.  It is used to cycle the gas burner off and on during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the dryer.  Using a test meter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity.  If the test shows that it does have continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is bad and will need to be replaced with a new one.

Step – (7.) Flame Sensor – The dryer flame sensor is used on a gas dryer as a safety device.  The sensor is used to prevent high levels of gas from building up in the dryer.  The sensor senses heat that is emitted from the igniter and monitors if it is hot enough to ignite the gas and light the burner.  You will need to test the sensor for continuity using a test meter.  If the test shows that the sensor does not have any continuity, the part is bad and it will need to be replaced with a new sensor.

Amana Refrigerator Is Too Cold

If you have noticed that your Amana refrigerator is getting too cold and freezing some of the fresh food or liquids, follow these four troubleshooting steps to help you isolate and fix the problem.  It could be as simple as turning two knobs to adjust the temperature setting in your fridge to get it functioning properly and at the optimum temperature again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any refrigerator yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that refrigerators have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in refrigerator repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Amana Refrigerator Help

Step-1. Air Inlet Damper

If your Amana refrigerator is getting too cold, you might have noticed some items in the fridge compartment are frozen.  The air inlet damper, also known as the air damper, baffle or diffuser is used to balance the cold air flow from the evaporator housing to the refrigerators fresh food holding section, on most models.  The inlet damper is made of plastic, with louvers like window blinds and is usually located on the interior wall of the fresh food compartment toward the bottom of the fridge.  The control knob for the damper is located next to the fridge’s cold control knob.  It might have freezer printed above or below it, it will be the knob (without) the off-position option.  Is the knob set on too cold of a position?  If so, move the knob a little bit to the warmer position.  You should be able to open and close the damper by adjusting the damper control knob.  If the damper diffuser is broken it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator, freezing the fresh food.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator for safe food storage is between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will start to freeze, if the temperature is any warmer than 40 degrees F the food will start to spoil.  You will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the fridges temperature correctly.  You can purchase a refrigerator thermometer fairly cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggests that the air inlet damper knobs indicator dial be set at the mid-range, straight up 12 o’clock position.

Step-2. Cold Control or Temperature Control

You will need to check the cold control knob/dial located in the refrigerator cabinet, is it set at too cold of a position?  If so, try turning the dial to a warmer position.  Note – The refrigerator cold control dial should only be turned about 1/8 of a turn in a 24-hour period.  You will need a refrigerator thermometer to adjust and set the refrigerator’s temperature correctly.  You can purchase a refrigerator thermometer reasonably cheap from almost any hardware store.  The factory suggested setting for the temperature control is mid-range, this means that the indicator on the dial/knob should point in the 12 o’clock position.  The optimum temperature inside of a refrigerator should be between 34 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit for safe food storage.   If the temperature is any colder than 34 degrees F food will freeze, any warmer than 40 degrees F food will start to spoil quickly.  Adjust the cold control knob 1/8 of a turn every 24 hours and take notes of how much colder the fridge has become and repeat the process until you hit the optimum temperature range, between 34- and 40-degrees Fahrenheit.

Step-3. Thermistor Or Temperature Sensor

If your refrigerator is equipped with an electronic control board the temperature is going to be controlled by a thermistor.  This part is usually located near the fridge’s air inlet, the thermistor senses the temperature and relays it back to the refrigerator electronic control board.  The control board will then monitor the temperature and will make the necessary adjustments to the cold air inlet damper as they are needed.  The temperature sensor could be faulty if it’s too cold in the fridge compartment.

Step-4. Electronic Control Board

A faulty electronic refrigerator control board could be the reason why the fridge is too cold.  The control board is used to control a multitude of a refrigerator’s parts and functions.  The control board is a very difficult part to test.  You can visually inspect the fridges control board for burnt spots, melted relays, solder joints or any other obvious signs of electrical damage and replace the board if you see any of the mentioned damage.  Electronic control boards aren’t cheap, some control boards can be pretty pricy.  Only after troubleshooting all of the other refrigerator’s components that could be at fault for the reason your refrigerator is getting too cold, should you suspect the electronic control board to be the culprit.

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