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Refrigerator Ice maker

Refrigerator Ice maker

The ice maker is installed in the freezer compartment of the refrigerator.  The ice maker has three distinct operations, to fill with water, freeze the water and harvest the ice cubes.

 

The freezer temperature determines the efficiency of an ice maker, the colder the temperature in the freezer the faster ice will freeze in the mold or tray.  In order for the ice maker to harvest the ice cubes, the temperature in the freezer should be colder than 12 degrees Fahrenheit.  The water supply is metered into the ice maker mold or tray by a water valve which is usually located in the compressor compartment. The water freezes in the ice maker tray as it would in a manual ice cube tray.

Ice makers have a thermostat that is mounted on the icemaker mold which will sense the temperature of the ice.  When the water and ice have cooled down to 17_3 degrees Fahrenheit, the thermostat will activate the ice maker motor and heater circuit.  The motor will rotate the ejector blade allowing it to rest on the ice cubes and at the same time exerting pressure.  The ice maker mold heater will warm up the ice cubes just enough to release the ice cubes from the mold.  This procedure will take approximately 3 to 5 minutes to release the ice cubes from the mold.  When the ice cubes become free from the ice maker mold the ejector blade will continue to rotate, scooping the ice cubes out of the ice maker mold and depositing them into the ice bucket.

The shut off arm moves up and down as the ice maker cycles.  At the end of the cycle the arm will lay on top of the ice cubes as the cubes fill the ice bucket.  The shut off arm raises to a designated point and turns off the ice maker, halting the ice production.  As the ice level in the bucket falls from use, the ice maker cycle will resume then the water valve opens again allowing the water to enter the ice maker mold to be frozen into ice cubes, beginning the cycle all over again.

If your ice maker has stopped producing ice or dumping the ice cubes out or will not fill with water there are ice maker replacement parts in most cases for most make and models to repair your ice maker.  The water inlet valve, module, ice lever/bale arm, ice maker mold with heater or drive gear.  In some cases you can purchase a brand new OEM ice maker or an ice maker kit that comes with an ice bucket and water fill valve for just about the same price that it will cost in parts to repair the old ice maker, not to mention your time and labor.

GE Cooktop Glass Main Top Replacement

GE Cooktop Glass Main Top Replacement

Reasons for replacing a GE cooktop main glass top only: The glass has become cracked, scratched, broken or the glass top has become discolored from years of use.

 

Whether you have a glass GE cooktop or a ceramic cooktop they are basically both the same.  Both smooth cooktop surfaces are made from a glass and ceramic blend.  It all really boils down to trade marks on the names.

These stylish GE cooktops are desired in most modern kitchens for their smooth sleek built in features.  They feature a smooth flat glass cooking surface with radiant heating elements which are hidden beneath the glass main top which provide almost instant even heat for cooking.

There are a few downsides of having a cooktop with the ceramic or glass main top versus a traditional cooktop with a metal surface and exposed coil heating elements with drip pans.  If you have cabinets directly above your cooktop you do not want to place heavy objects in it, such as canned foods, glass jars, pots/pans or dishes.  They can fall and break the cooktop glass main top.  You do not want to use cast iron cookwear that is not coated with smooth porcelain.  The rough bare cast iron can scratch the fine surface of the glass.  You will want to clean up spills or boil overs on the hot cooking surfaces as soon as possible to prevent them from getting burnt and baked on and very difficult, if not impossible, to remove later.  Clean the cooktop by using a wet sponge or a damp soft cloth, never use harsh metal scouring pads on the glass cooktop surface, it can scratch the glass.

Kenmore Range/Stove/Oven Broil Element

Kenmore Range/Stove/Oven Broil Element

The broil element is located in the top of the Kenmore oven compartment, it is used for cooking at high heat. The oven broil element will usually last longer than the bake element.

 

If you have noticed that the broil element in your Kenmore oven or range is not heating you will need to examine the element for any signs of obvious damage, such as blistering or bubbling on the broil elements smooth outer surface.  Are there any cracks or splits in the element?  Sometimes the element will break in half or melt in spots.  If you do not see any visual damage you will need to continue on with the next step testing the element for continuity.

Before proceeding any further always disconnect the electricity before working on any electrical appliances.  Disconnect the electricity to the oven.  This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle or flipping the breaker off.  Make sure the electricity is turned off to the unit.  USE  EXTREME CAUTION!  YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS.

To gain access to the broil element, open the oven door and remove the oven racks.  Begin by removing the screws that secure the element to the back of the oven’s cavity.  Slide the element forward and inspect the wires on the broil element terminals.  Make certain that the wires are not burnt or the terminal ends aren’t loose or burnt, remove the screws from the terminal ends or pull the wires off of the broil element terminals, which ever the case may be.  Using a multimeter set the Range scale to the lowest ohms setting.  Place the probes on the element terminals, there should be continuity.  The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer according to the size of the unit and the wattage used, but the reading should generally be between 10 to 75 OHMS.  If you do not get a reading on the multimeter, the element does not have continuity and will need to be replaced with a new Kenmore broil element.

 

Testing A Broil Element For Continuity

Testing An Oven Broil Element For Continuity

 

Kenmore Oven Broil Element

Kenmore Oven Broil Element

GE Range/Stove/Oven Bake Element

GE Range/Stove/Oven Bake Element

Typically, when the bake element in a GE oven/stove goes bad the bake element will not heat at all or when the bake element is turned on it trips the circuit breakers or it blows the main fuses.

 

In some cases you will see arching or sparks and hear a loud electrical buzzing sound like someone is welding in your oven.  To verify if the heating element is  bad, turn the selector switch to bake and then set the thermostat temperature.  Is the bake element heating?  On some models the clock must be set to manual, check the use and care manual for the model you are servicing.

Check for external damage of the bake element.  Is the appliance installed properly?  Does the appliance have the correct voltage?

Always disconnect the electricity before working on any electrical appliances.  Disconnect the electricity to the oven.  This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle or flipping the breaker off.  Make sure the electricity is turned off to the unit.  USE EXTREME CAUTION!  YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS,

To gain access to the bake element, open the oven door and remove the oven racks.  Begin by removing the screws that secure the element to the back of the oven’s cavity.  Slide the element forward and inspect the wires on the bake element terminals.  Make certain that the wires are not burnt or the terminal ends aren’t loose or burnt, remove the screws from the terminal ends or pull the wires off of the bake element terminals, witch ever the case may be.  Using a multimeter set the Range scale to the lowest ohms setting.  Place the probes on the element terminals, there should be continuity.  The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer according to the size of the unit and the wattage used, but the reading should generally be between 10 to 75 OHMS.  If you do not get a reading on the multimeter, the element does not have continuity and will need to be replaced with a new bake element.

 

Bad Oven Bake Element

Bad Oven Bake Element

Testing A Bake Element For Continuity

Testing An Oven Bake Element For Continuity

GE Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working

GE Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working

The GE ice maker is an independent appliance that is installed in the freezer compartment of the refrigerator.  The ice maker has three distinct operations, to fill with water, freeze the water and harvest the ice cubes.

 

If your GE ice maker has stopped producing ice or dumping the ice cubes out or will not fill with water there are replacement parts in most cases for most make and models to repair your ice maker.  The water inlet valve, module, ice lever/bale arm, ice maker mold with heater or drive gear.  In some cases you can purchase a brand new OEM GE ice maker or an ice maker kit that comes with an ice bucket and water fill valve for just about the same price that it will cost in parts to repair the old ice maker, not to mention your time and labor.

GE Refrigerator Ice Maker

GE Refrigerator Ice Maker