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Dryer Circuit Control Board

Dryer Circuit Control Board

The dryer circuit control board controls most of the operations within the dryer.  If the control board is bad, the dryer may not start or the dryer will not heat up.


Before proceeding any further always disconnect the electricity before working on any electrical appliances.  Disconnect the electricity to the dryer.  This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle or by flipping the breaker off.  Make sure the electricity is turned off to the dryer.  USE  EXTREME CAUTION!  YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS.

When replacing the bad dryer control board with a new control board, it is a good practice to have the new replacement circuit board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the dryer circuit boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing it.

If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad control board while it is still connected in your dryer control panel for future reference, if needed.

Now that you are sure that both of the boards are the same you can transfer the wires from the old board to the new control board.

Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board you will need to replace the dryer console or control panel, plug the power cord back in.  You may need to program the new dryer control board, following the instructions for the make and model of your dryer.

The control board in your dryer has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age.  Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on appliances and are responsible for damage to many circuit boards.  Electrical power surges and flood waters or just moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty dryer circuit control board.

Overloading Your Dryer Could Damage It

Overloading Your Dryer Could Damage It

If you overload your dryer you may be asking for trouble.  Putting too many clothes in your dryer may actually damage it and possibly burn out the dryer motor.


If your dryer shakes, vibrates, rattles or even tries to move around the room, it could be that the legs on the dryer are uneven or the floor surface is unstable but most likely it is because you have over loaded it, too many clothes!!

A number of dryers have different settings and cycles for a variety of times, fabrics and item options.  If you use the Air Dry or Air Fluff cycle and it leaves your clothes damp it is because not enough heat was produced to dry the clothes, using the wrong cycle and time setting can leave the clothes damp, also piling too many clothes into the dryer will prevent the clothes from tumbling freely and therefore prevent them from drying.  If the dryer has a dryness sensor the sensor may overload if the clothes are not able to dry adequately.  The sensors then would malfunction or stop working.

The dryer motor could possibly burn out prematurely if you continue to overload it because it puts a strain on the dryer.

If you are overloading your dryer on a regular basis, that can eventually cause the system to overheat and cause damage to the unit.

Signs That a Dryer Motor is Going Bad

Signs That a Dryer Motor is Going Bad

If your dryer is making a loud growling noise and sometimes buzzes when the start button is pushed or sometimes the motor shuts off before the cycle is completed then you may have a problem with the motor.


Always remember to clean the dryer lint filter after each load and it is helpful to keep lint from covering the motor which could cause it to overheat and burn out.

If the dryer is humming after pressing the start button and you cannot turn the drum by hand it is likely your motor has burned out and will need to be replaced.

Caution: Always remove/disconnect the power source from the unit you are working on. Unplug it! When unplugging or removing the power source, double check to make sure you removed the proper cord or turned off the proper breaker.

Check to see if the motor will rotate freely and run it with the belt removed and blower in place.  If the motor runs good without the belt then the problem maybe the idler pully or drum.  If the drum cannot rotate fully with the belt on, you may need to replace one or possibly both of these parts.  If you have to hold the start button down for a couple of seconds, this is most likely the sign of a burned out or bad motor which will need to be replaced.

If your dryer will start but then stops after just a few minutes then your problem maybe a malfunctioning thermal overload detector which is mounted on the motor and heater box.

Perhaps the motor hums but does not rotate even with the belt removed, but you can still turn the drum by hand, you may have to replace the motor or motor start capacitor.

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Helpful tips and clothes dryer diagnostic advice below with troubleshooting suggestions for the Do-It-Yourselfer. See photos of common Whirlpool and Kenmore clothes dryer repair techniques.

Some of the General Diagnostic Repair Tips presented below may also apply for your,
GE, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef and Frigidaire electric clothes dryer.

Kenmore Dryer Repair Tips
Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help


The diagnostic help out lined below is intended to be used only by professional appliance repair technicians.

If you are attempting to repair your clothes dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potential dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious injury or death. Be aware that appliance parts have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious injury or death.

Always remove/disconnect the power source from the unit you are working on. Unplug it! When unplugging or removing the power source, double check to make sure you removed the proper cord or turned off the proper breaker. When tightening or loosening parts make sure that if the tool you are working with or your hand slips, you will not be injured by sharp or jagged edges.

Always keep children and pets away from working area and disassembled washer parts. Be aware that there are other hazards involved in appliance repairs besides those listed above that may cause serious injury or death. Use extreme caution when installing or removing parts.


A common malfunction is the dryer thermal fuse – when it gets too hot it will cause the dryer to cease/stop running and will not start again. These thermal fuses are not on all clothes dryers, they are found on most dryers made since 1986.

Clothes Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519


The information given below is general in nature and should not
be construed to be all inclusive nor necessarily applicable
toward your particular make or model electric clothes dryer.

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Disconnect The Dryer From It’s Power Source!

To access the inside of dryer cabinet – remove the two screws shown below,
then use a stout putty knife or regular wide screwdriver to pry the lid up.
Pulling the lid toward you while prying up will help,
then remove the two screws on the inside of the cabinet, one on each side.
See red arrow on the third picture below. These instructions apply to some dryers that do not have a kick plate on the bottom of the dryer.

If your Whirlpool dryer, Kenmore dryer has a kick plate,  this procedure may be different. Some parts can be accessed and repairs may be made after removing the kick plate. The kick plate can usually be removed with a stout putty knife by pushing in on the two retainer clips at top of the kickplate while gently pulling kickplate toward you. (some models since 1995)

Some newer models you may have to flip the console faceplate back to remove screws that allow you to remove the top and then remove front panel.

Disconnect the unit from it’s power source!




REP-DRY-INSIDE-150x150After removing the screws (red arrow) pull the panel toward you a couple of inches, then lift up.

Check breaker box in the house. Electric (220 volt) dryer has two 110 volt circuits,  the motor will run but will not supply voltage to the element if one circuit is not on. This is usually a 30 amp double throw breaker.  Flip off and on a few times to test even if it looks like it’s on.

This is a common problem, especially in the summer.

  • Dryer runs does not heat.
  • Dryer running, is not heating.
  • Dryer will not start.
  • Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise.
  • Whirlpool and Kenmore repair diagnostic tips.
  • Dryer runs – makes loud clunking noise.
  • Dryer motor runs – the drum does not turn.
  • Heating element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  • Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common

Dryer runs but does not heat – Problems
  1. Dryer heating element is shorted.  (has a break in the coil.)
    Replace the element (dryer heating element should show continuity with ohm meter.) Looking at the back, the element is located on right hand side in a long metal housing (on most older models). The housing must be removed from unit and element must be removed from the inside of the housing for  inspection. The heating element housing has a 3 1/2″ metal strap at the top that secures it to the dryer, The strap must be removed. Most common element part # 4391960.
  2. Thermal fuse is blown. Located in the back. The back cover must be removed. This thermal fuse should show continuity when checked with an ohm meter. Dryer replacement part # 279769.
  3. Dryer hi limit thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with an ohm meter provided it is cool. Most of these limits are either 250 degree shut off (L250) or 290 degree (L290) older models. T-stat limit part is located near bottom of heater housing.
  4. 01REP-DRY-FUSE2Operating thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with ohm meter provided it is cool. This t-stat limit is located on blower housing. If there is only one limit it is usually a 145 degree limit (L145). Older units may have two or three limits. These are usually dryer repair parts (L135), (L145), (L155). Dryer thermostats.
Less common problems – Dryer is running but not heating



  1. Dryer timer is defective.
  2. Switch on the dryer motor is defective.
  3. Temperature switch on the console is defective.
  4. Solid state circuit board is defective. (dryer main control board).
  5. Dryer power cord is defective.
  6. Terminal block (where the power cord is connected to the dryer) is shorted out.
  7. Wiring shorted at the terminal block, or elsewhere.
  8. Improper voltage supplied to the power cord (house current).


Dryer will not start

Most common reasons

More Whirlpool And Kenmore Dryer Repair Help


Make sure the dryer is plugged in and has proper voltage.

  1. Operating thermal fuse is blown – This thermal fuse should show continuity with an ohm meter, oval type part # 3390719. rectangle type Part # 3392519. located in back of the dryer on the blower housing, this picture shows the (rectangle) type.  Older models have the (oval) type, both types are made of white plastic.
  2. Door switch defective. Replace with part # 279347. Switch is on the right hand (front). Older models may be located in center.
  3. Lever that actuates dryer door switch may be broken or bent. Replace with part # 279347.


Less common reasons
  1. Dryer is not plugged in.
  2. No voltage at wall socket.
  3. Dryer power cord is defective.
  4. Terminal block shorted or wires shorted else where.
  5. Wires shorted at the terminal block. (where power cord connects to the dryer).
  6. Dryer timer is defective.
  7. Solid state circuit board defective. (Main Control Board).
  8. Dryer  motor defective.
  9. Push to start switch defective. Note: This is probably the least likely reason dryer will not start. If the switch is made of clear plastic and you can see residue inside where the points have been arcing, this is normal and does not signify a bad switch. The switch when depressed should show continuity with an ohm meter.


Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise when the Push To Start Switch is activated.

Whirlpool and Kenmore dryer repair diagnostic tips.
  1. Dryer motor may be defective. (most probable).
  2. Blower fan may be obstructed.
  3. Defective timer.
  4. Seized idler pulley or drum rollers.
  5. Defective switch on the motor. (bad motor switch)
  6. Rear drum seal is shredded, hung up on the rollers or elsewhere.
  7. Improper electrical house current.
  8. Shorted wiring or bad terminal block.
Dryer runs – makes a loud clunking noise
  1. Drum rollers are worn. – (most probable cause). Part # 349241t.
  2. Idler pulley is worn. Part # 691366.
  3. Front or rear drum seals is defective. – (rare).


More pictures that show the inside and back of your Whirlpool or Kenmore clothes dryer.

Dryer motor runs – but the drum does not turn.

Your Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer may be easy to repair.

  1. Belt broken – (most probable).
  2. Dryer idler pulley broken or dislodged.
  3. Idler pulley installed in the wrong position.
  4. Extremely stretched belt.
  5. Dryer motor pulley is loose.
  6. Dryer belt installed improperly.
Heat element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  1. Defective motor switch.
  2. Heater element coil touching heater element housing.
  3. Wiring shorted (least probable).



Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common causes:

Clogged Clothes Dryer Lint Screen/Trap

  1. Vent hose has kink in it.
  2. Vent hose too long.
  3. Vent hose clogged.
  4. Interior house vent pipe clogged at roof or elsewhere.
  5. Flap on exterior vent is stuck or clogged.
  6. Lint filter has build-up residue on screen. (use wire brush to clean.)
  7. Lint filter not cleaned after each load.
  8. Dryer door not closed properly.
  9. Door seal missing.
  10. Back drum seal defective.
  11. Defective operating thermostat, (L145) is most common.
  12. Defective hi-limit thermostat, (L250)  (L290)  are most common.
  13. Defective timer – defective temperature select switch.
  14. Defective dryer motor switch.
  15. Intermittent operation of above electrical parts.
  16. Restricted air flow, interior cabinet air flow system.
  17. Washer not spin-drying clothes properly.
  18. Heater element housing loose from bulkhead.

This is not a complete list of causes


Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case,  these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Dryer drum rollers & idler pulley.

Dryer part number # 439206509REP-DRY-BELT-150x150