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GE Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair Help

GE Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair Help

Your GE oven, range or cooktop will eventually need a repair part or two, sometimes they are
very easy to install.  Your average GE range bake element will usually last
8 years or longer.

GE range and oven bake elements, under normal use, will usually work for eight years or more, broil elements usually hold up much longer. It is not unusual to see GE oven/range units that are twenty years old or older that have never needed any repair parts.

Here are some GE oven repair tips.

Remember to always unplug or disconnect all electrical appliances before attempting any repairs.

If the bake or broil element in your GE oven or range is not working
and you can’t see any exterior damage such as a small hole or a break in the element
where it has shorted out or any other obvious damage, it may have a wire
that has come off of the terminal clips on the element or one of the wires may have shorted
where it connects to the bake unit terminals. Since a lot of people buy GE stove, range and oven parts
only to find out later that the problem was a burnt wire, it might save you an
unnecessary oven repair parts expense if you check this out before purchasing new parts.

GE Oven Bake Elements

If you have an ohm meter (available at most hardware stores) you can check
oven-range-stove element for resistance.  Usually if it shows resistance it is an indicator
that the burner is good and the problem may be in the oven, range, stove selector
switch or thermostat.

Your GE range or stove surface unit parts, as shown above, may start working erratically.
If this is so, The terminal ends on the stove burner may be charred or burnt. This will cause the range
burner to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block it plugs into. It is quite often
better to replace both range parts. If the terminals on the surface unit are burnt then the contacts
on the block are probably burnt also. If new part is used with a burnt terminal block these
range, stove repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.

If your GE range or cooktop surface unit switch becomes defective,
your burner may stay at high heat when you turn it on, even if you
have it at a low setting.  Of course the burner element may not come on at all when the switch
is turned on.   Repeat, the main symptoms when these range, stove parts become defective is
too much heat or no heat.

 

These oven, stove, range terminals are installed with ceramic wire nuts that usually
come with the parts kit, along with installation instructions.
To obtain the best repair results when using wire nuts, make sure each wire you are
connecting to each other is bright and shiny.  You may need to use sandpaper
on the wires to achieve this result.

Bad GE Bake Element

Maytag Dryer Runs But Doesn’t Heat..

Maytag Dryer Runs But Doesn’t Heat..

Your Maytag dryer may not need any new parts to restore the heat or require any tools for doing this dryer repair.  You

may be able to have your electric dryer heating again by just flipping a switch.

Before assembling all of the tools needed for repairing your electric dryer and taking apart the dryer’s cabinet, let’s try this first.  Here’s what you will need to do, you will need to locate your home’s breaker box.  Locate the breaker switch that is designated to supply electrical power to your clothes dryer,

which is usually a 30 AMP double throw breaker.  Next you will need to firmly flip the breaker switch off and on a few times to test it, even if the switch looks like it is in the on position.  The electric dryer has two 110 volt circuits, the dryer motor will run but will not supply voltage to the heating element if one circuit has been tripped or is not on.  During the heat of summer, this is a pretty common occurrence.

 

If this did not fix the no heat problem with your dryer, you will need to test the dryer’s heating element, thermal fuse, thermostats and

30 AMP Double Pole Breaker

timer/circuit board to see if they are all functioning properly.

 

GE Stove Surface Element Not Working

GE Stove Surface Element Not Working

If your GE stove surface element is not heating or functioning properly, this is some repair advice for the most common GE stove/range problems you might have.

 

Always make sure that the surface elements are not hot and have cooled down before handling them.  If one of the surface elements has stopped working on your oven or stove/cooktop you can simply do a visual check and see if there is a break in the element or if the element has bubbling, a burned hole or blistering.  If the surface element does have visible damage it is likely bad.  However, you can’t always tell if an element is good or bad by just examining it with your eyes.

Check to make sure that the surface element has not come loose from the terminal block that it is plugged into.  Some surface elements simply plug into the receptacle – terminal block requiring no tools for removal or replacement.  Other elements have a screw attaching them to the receptacle – terminal block.  Make sure that the screws are tight and have not come loose, a regular or Phillips head screw driver will be required.

If the coil surface element still does not heat up after the above procedures have been performed you will need to do a continuity test.  If you have a multi meter or OHM meter you can check the element for continuity, if the element shows continuity then it is good.  If it shows no continuity then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

If the damage is on the terminal ends of the element with corrosion buildup or signs of charred or burnt spots it is a good idea to replace the terminals as well or else you might not have good electrical contact after the new element has been installed.

If you have checked the element for continuity and it is good, next you need to check the receptacle terminals and wires for obvious damage such as burnt spots, melted plastic, arching or corrosion. If damage is found you need to replace the terminal block with a new one.  If you have checked the coil element and the terminal block receptacle and have determined that they are both good and in working order, you will need to check the infinite switch – surface burner switch for continuity.  It is the switch that the coil element selector knob is attached to on the console or top of your oven/stove, depending on the make and model.  If the switch is bad replace it with a new one.

More stove/range/oven repair help

Above I have listed the most common reasons why a stove/range surface element will not heat or function properly.  If you are not able to repair your stove/range with the repair help that I have listed above you should call a reputable and qualified service technician who can, hopefully, get your oven back in working order.

The surface element, also known as the coil surface element, transfers heat to the area on top of range.

 

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Helpful tips and clothes dryer diagnostic advice below with troubleshooting suggestions for the Do-It-Yourselfer. See photos of common Whirlpool and Kenmore clothes dryer repair techniques.

Some of the General Diagnostic Repair Tips presented below may also apply for your,
GE, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef and Frigidaire electric clothes dryer.

Kenmore Dryer Repair Tips
Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Caution:

The diagnostic help out lined below is intended to be used only by professional appliance repair technicians.

If you are attempting to repair your clothes dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potential dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious injury or death. Be aware that appliance parts have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious injury or death.

Always remove/disconnect the power source from the unit you are working on. Unplug it! When unplugging or removing the power source, double check to make sure you removed the proper cord or turned off the proper breaker. When tightening or loosening parts make sure that if the tool you are working with or your hand slips, you will not be injured by sharp or jagged edges.

Always keep children and pets away from working area and disassembled washer parts. Be aware that there are other hazards involved in appliance repairs besides those listed above that may cause serious injury or death. Use extreme caution when installing or removing parts.

 

A common malfunction is the dryer thermal fuse – when it gets too hot it will cause the dryer to cease/stop running and will not start again. These thermal fuses are not on all clothes dryers, they are found on most dryers made since 1986.

Clothes Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519

 

The information given below is general in nature and should not
be construed to be all inclusive nor necessarily applicable
toward your particular make or model electric clothes dryer.

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Disconnect The Dryer From It’s Power Source!

To access the inside of dryer cabinet – remove the two screws shown below,
then use a stout putty knife or regular wide screwdriver to pry the lid up.
Pulling the lid toward you while prying up will help,
then remove the two screws on the inside of the cabinet, one on each side.
See red arrow on the third picture below. These instructions apply to some dryers that do not have a kick plate on the bottom of the dryer.

If your Whirlpool dryer, Kenmore dryer has a kick plate,  this procedure may be different. Some parts can be accessed and repairs may be made after removing the kick plate. The kick plate can usually be removed with a stout putty knife by pushing in on the two retainer clips at top of the kickplate while gently pulling kickplate toward you. (some models since 1995)

Some newer models you may have to flip the console faceplate back to remove screws that allow you to remove the top and then remove front panel.

Disconnect the unit from it’s power source!

KENMORE DRYER REPAIR
WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR

REP-DRY-TOP-150x150

REP-DRY-TOPFLIP-150x150

REP-DRY-INSIDE-150x150After removing the screws (red arrow) pull the panel toward you a couple of inches, then lift up.

Check breaker box in the house. Electric (220 volt) dryer has two 110 volt circuits,  the motor will run but will not supply voltage to the element if one circuit is not on. This is usually a 30 amp double throw breaker.  Flip off and on a few times to test even if it looks like it’s on.

This is a common problem, especially in the summer.

  • Dryer runs does not heat.
  • Dryer running, is not heating.
  • Dryer will not start.
  • Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise.
  • Whirlpool and Kenmore repair diagnostic tips.
  • Dryer runs – makes loud clunking noise.
  • Dryer motor runs – the drum does not turn.
  • Heating element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  • Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common

Dryer runs but does not heat – Problems
KENMORE DRYER REPAIR    WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR
  1. Dryer heating element is shorted.  (has a break in the coil.)
    Replace the element (dryer heating element should show continuity with ohm meter.) Looking at the back, the element is located on right hand side in a long metal housing (on most older models). The housing must be removed from unit and element must be removed from the inside of the housing for  inspection. The heating element housing has a 3 1/2″ metal strap at the top that secures it to the dryer, The strap must be removed. Most common element part # 4391960.
  2. Thermal fuse is blown. Located in the back. The back cover must be removed. This thermal fuse should show continuity when checked with an ohm meter. Dryer replacement part # 279769.
  3. Dryer hi limit thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with an ohm meter provided it is cool. Most of these limits are either 250 degree shut off (L250) or 290 degree (L290) older models. T-stat limit part is located near bottom of heater housing.
  4. 01REP-DRY-FUSE2Operating thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with ohm meter provided it is cool. This t-stat limit is located on blower housing. If there is only one limit it is usually a 145 degree limit (L145). Older units may have two or three limits. These are usually dryer repair parts (L135), (L145), (L155). Dryer thermostats.
Less common problems – Dryer is running but not heating

 

WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR   KENMORE DRYER REPAIR

  1. Dryer timer is defective.
  2. Switch on the dryer motor is defective.
  3. Temperature switch on the console is defective.
  4. Solid state circuit board is defective. (dryer main control board).
  5. Dryer power cord is defective.
  6. Terminal block (where the power cord is connected to the dryer) is shorted out.
  7. Wiring shorted at the terminal block, or elsewhere.
  8. Improper voltage supplied to the power cord (house current).

02REP-DRY-HILIMIT-150x150

Dryer will not start

Most common reasons

More Whirlpool And Kenmore Dryer Repair Help

 

Make sure the dryer is plugged in and has proper voltage.

  1. Operating thermal fuse is blown – This thermal fuse should show continuity with an ohm meter, oval type part # 3390719. rectangle type Part # 3392519. located in back of the dryer on the blower housing, this picture shows the (rectangle) type.  Older models have the (oval) type, both types are made of white plastic.
  2. Door switch defective. Replace with part # 279347. Switch is on the right hand (front). Older models may be located in center.
  3. Lever that actuates dryer door switch may be broken or bent. Replace with part # 279347.

03REP-L145-150x15004REP-DRY-FUSE-150x150

Less common reasons
  1. Dryer is not plugged in.
  2. No voltage at wall socket.
  3. Dryer power cord is defective.
  4. Terminal block shorted or wires shorted else where.
  5. Wires shorted at the terminal block. (where power cord connects to the dryer).
  6. Dryer timer is defective.
  7. Solid state circuit board defective. (Main Control Board).
  8. Dryer  motor defective.
  9. Push to start switch defective. Note: This is probably the least likely reason dryer will not start. If the switch is made of clear plastic and you can see residue inside where the points have been arcing, this is normal and does not signify a bad switch. The switch when depressed should show continuity with an ohm meter.

05REP-DRY-LEVER-150x150

Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise when the Push To Start Switch is activated.

Whirlpool and Kenmore dryer repair diagnostic tips.
  1. Dryer motor may be defective. (most probable).
  2. Blower fan may be obstructed.
  3. Defective timer.
  4. Seized idler pulley or drum rollers.
  5. Defective switch on the motor. (bad motor switch)
  6. Rear drum seal is shredded, hung up on the rollers or elsewhere.
  7. Improper electrical house current.
  8. Shorted wiring or bad terminal block.
Dryer runs – makes a loud clunking noise
  1. Drum rollers are worn. – (most probable cause). Part # 349241t.
  2. Idler pulley is worn. Part # 691366.
  3. Front or rear drum seals is defective. – (rare).

06REP-DRY-SWT-150x150

More pictures that show the inside and back of your Whirlpool or Kenmore clothes dryer.

Dryer motor runs – but the drum does not turn.

Your Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer may be easy to repair.

  1. Belt broken – (most probable).
  2. Dryer idler pulley broken or dislodged.
  3. Idler pulley installed in the wrong position.
  4. Extremely stretched belt.
  5. Dryer motor pulley is loose.
  6. Dryer belt installed improperly.
Heat element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  1. Defective motor switch.
  2. Heater element coil touching heater element housing.
  3. Wiring shorted (least probable).

07REP-DRY-ROLLER31-150x150

 

Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common causes:

Clogged Clothes Dryer Lint Screen/Trap

  1. Vent hose has kink in it.
  2. Vent hose too long.
  3. Vent hose clogged.
  4. Interior house vent pipe clogged at roof or elsewhere.
  5. Flap on exterior vent is stuck or clogged.
  6. Lint filter has build-up residue on screen. (use wire brush to clean.)
  7. Lint filter not cleaned after each load.
  8. Dryer door not closed properly.
  9. Door seal missing.
  10. Back drum seal defective.
  11. Defective operating thermostat, (L145) is most common.
  12. Defective hi-limit thermostat, (L250)  (L290)  are most common.
  13. Defective timer – defective temperature select switch.
  14. Defective dryer motor switch.
  15. Intermittent operation of above electrical parts.
  16. Restricted air flow, interior cabinet air flow system.
  17. Washer not spin-drying clothes properly.
  18. Heater element housing loose from bulkhead.

This is not a complete list of causes

WHIRLPOOL DRYER PARTS

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case,  these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Dryer drum rollers & idler pulley.

Dryer part number # 439206509REP-DRY-BELT-150x150

 

My Dryer Runs But Will Not Heat

My Dryer Runs But Will Not Heat

Your dryer may not need any new parts to restore the heat or require any tools for this dryer repair.  You might be able to get your electric dryer heating again with just the flip of a switch.

Thermal Fuse

Let’s try this before opening your dryer’s cabinet and dragging all of your tools out.  Here’s what you will need to do.  You will need to locate your home’s breaker box.  Locate the breaker switch that is designated to supply electrical power to your clothes dryer.  This is usually a 30 AMP double throw breaker.  You will need to flip the breaker off and on to test even if the switch looks like it is in the on position.  The electric dryer has two 110 volt circuits, the dryer motor will run but not supply voltage to the heating element if one circuit is tripped or not on.  This is a fairly common problem especially during the heat of summer.

Clothes Dryer Heating Element

If this did not fix the problem you will need to test the heating element, thermal fuse, thermostats and timer to see if they are all functioning properly.

How The Heating Element Plays A Major Role In Most All Household Appliances Today

How The Heating Element Plays A Major Role In Most All Household Appliances Today

 

Did you know that most all major electric household appliances in your home use a heating element for their source of heat?

REFRIGERATOR – That’s right!  Even your refrigerator and icemaker use a heating element.  The refrigerator uses a heating element/defrost heater assembly for the defrost cycle and the icemaker uses a heating element to heat up the icemaker tray so the ice will loosen and can be kicked out at the end of a cycle.

OVEN – Your electric oven uses two different heating elements, it uses a bake element for the bake setting and a broil for the broil setting. The bake element is located on the bottom of the oven’s interior and the broil element is located on the top of the oven’s interior.

STOVE – The electric range, stove or cooktop uses surface element burners or radiant elements.  The coil surface element is a coiled circle shaped heating element that can be accessed from the cooktop of your stove.  The radiant element is underneath a sleek smooth ceramic glass cooktop, only accessible from under the glass.

CLOTHES DRYER – The electric clothes dryer would take days to dry your laundry if it were to just tumble the clothes dry without the help of the dryer heating element.  The dryer’s fan draws in fresh air over the clothes dryers hot heating element then into the drum and circulates the heater air throughout the laundry while it tumbles, the moist air is blown out the clothes dryer exhaust vent in a continuous cycle.

Clothes Dryer Heating Elements

DISHWASHER – The dishwasher has a heating element which helps aid in heating the water for the hot wash and rinse cycles and helps aid drying the dishes in the drying cycle.

HOT WATER HEATER – Your electric hot water heater uses heating elements to heat the water in the tank so you can have warm or hot water ready on demand for showers, baths, washing laundry or just brushing your teeth.

Heating elements do have a life span just like an incandescent light bulb filament will simply burn out with no warning signs at the flip of a switch, so can the heating element in your house hold major appliances.  You don’t have to start looking for a new appliance just because the heating element has burned out.  They are fairly inexpensive to buy and may be replaced fairly easy on some make and models of appliances,