If your Inglis dryer’s not starting, follow these seven troubleshooting steps to help you locate the problem, find the defective part or parts and get your dryer running again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that clothes dryers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in dryer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!

Inglis Electric Dryer

Won’t Start

(1.) – Circuit Breaker – You will need to find your breaker box and locate the breaker that is dedicated for your electric dryer.  Flip the breaker off and on a few times, even if the breaker looks like it is already in the on position.  Now go and try to start your dryer again.  If the breaker was not the problem, you will need to examine or test the parts listed below, to isolate which part is the problem.

(2.) – Safety Reminder – Make sure to disconnect the electricity that is designated to your clothes dryer before you ever begin to examine, troubleshoot, remove or replace any of the parts on a dryer.

(3.) – Thermal Fuse – The dryer thermal fuse is also known as the thermal cutoff fuse and the temperature fuse.  The fuse is used as a safety mechanism, cutting off electricity to the dryer motor and the heating element to keep the clothes dryer from getting too hot, once this fuse has blown it cannot be reused. If your fuse has blown, you will need to check for blockage or lint build up in the clothes dryer vent hose and ventilation system, before installing a new thermal fuse, only to have it blow again.

(4.) – Door Switch – If the door switch is defective the dryer won’t start.  Visually inspect the door switch to make sure that it is not broken in any way, test the switch to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter.  If the lid switch has continuity and has no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the lid switch does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced with a new one.

(5.) – Start Switch – The start switch is located on the front console of your clothes dryer.  If your dryer won’t start, the switch will need to be tested to see if it has continuity using a multimeter, if the start switch has continuity and has no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the switch does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

(6.) – Drive Belt – Some dryer models are equipped with a belt switch, if the belt is broken it will prevent the switch from operating, preventing the clothes dryer’s drum from turning.

(7.) – Drive Motor – Inspect the drive motor, the most common symptoms of a bad drive motor are, the motor is loud, the motor hums, won’t turn freely or it is seized up, if so, the motor is bad and will need to be replaced.  The motor should run quiet and turn smooth and freely.

Troubleshooting an Inglis dryer that won’t start – (video)

Inglis Gas Dryer

Won’t Start

(1.) – Breaker – You will need to find your breaker box and locate the breaker that is dedicated for your gas dryer.  Now flip the breaker off and on even if the breaker looks like it is already on.  Now go and try to start your dryer again, if the dryer still does not start up, you will need to troubleshoot and examine the parts list below to find the culprit.

(.2) – Safety Precaution – Make sure to disconnect the electricity that is designated to your dryer before you ever begin to examine, troubleshoot, remove or replace any of the parts on a dryer.  Be sure and turn the gas off before removing or replacing any of the gas related parts on a clothes dryer.

(3.) – Thermal Fuse – The dryer thermal fuse is also known as the thermal cutoff fuse and the temperature fuse.  The fuse is used as a safety mechanism, cutting off electricity to the dryer’s motor and the heating element to keep the clothes dryer from getting too hot.  Note – Once this fuse has blown it cannot be reused. If your fuse has blown, you will need to check for blockage or lint build up in the clothes dryer vent hose or ventilation system, before installing a new thermal fuse, only to have it blow again.

(4.) – Door Switch – If the door switch is bad the dryer will not start.  You will need to visually inspect the dryer door switch to make sure that it is not broken, test the switch to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter.  If the test shows that the lid switch has continuity and has no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the test shows the lid switch does not have continuity, the part is bad, and it will need to be replaced with a new one.

(5.) – Start Switch – The start switch is located on the front console of your clothes dryer.  If your dryer won’t start, the switch will need to be tested to see if it has continuity using a multimeter.  If the start switch has continuity and has no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the switch does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced.

(6.) – Drive Belt – Some dryer models are equipped with a belt switch.  If the dryer belt is broken it will prevent the switch from operating and prevent the clothes dryer’s drum from turning.

(7.) – Drive Motor – Inspect the drive motor.  Is the motor loud, does the motor hum and not turn freely or is it froze up, if so, the motor is bad and will need to be replaced.  The motor should run quiet and turn smooth and freely.

Troubleshooting an Inglis dryer that isn’t starting – (video)

If your Inglis dryer is taking too long to dry the laundry, follow these troubleshooting steps to help you locate the problem, find the faulty part or parts and replace them, to get your dryer heating properly again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that clothes dryers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in dryer repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!

Inglis Electric Dryer

Takes Too Long To Dry

1. Safety Reminder – Remember to always unplug the power cord that is designated to the dryer you are working on before you ever begin to troubleshoot or make any repairs to it.
2. Lint Blockage – The most common reason a dryer takes too long to dry the laundry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer, if the load comes out dry, you will need to inspect and remove any lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.
3. Blower Wheel – You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel and clean out any lint build up that is present.  Note: you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.
4. Heating Element – You will need to visually inspect the dryer’s heating element for damage.  If the elements coils are intact and no signs of damage are found, you will then need to test it for continuity using a multimeter or a digital meter.  If the element does not have continuity the part is bad and will need to be replaced.  Before installing the new heating element on your dryer, you will need to check for burnt or loose wires and repair them before installing the new element.  Loose wire connections or damaged or burnt wires can short out the newly installed heating element.
5. High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s heating element housing.  The thermostat is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the heating element off if the dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a multimeter or digital meter.  If the meter shows the thermostat has continuity the part is good.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is bad and will need to be replaced.
6. Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally located on the dryer’s blower housing.  The thermostat is used to cycle the heating element on and off during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a digital meter or a multimeter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity, if the meter shows that it has continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part is bad and will need to be replaced.
7. Dryer Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is faulty, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.

Troubleshooting an Inglis dryer that is drying to slow – (video)

Inglis Gas Dryer

Taking Too Long To Dry

1. Safety Precaution Reminder – Please be sure that the gas and electricity have been turned off and disconnected completely from the clothes dryer before proceeding any further.
2. Lint Blockage – The most common reason a clothes dryer takes too long to dry is from lint blockage in the dryer’s ventilation system.  If your laundry is hot and damp at the end of the drying cycle, make sure that the lint filter has been cleared of all of the lint.  The lint filter should be cleaned between every load, as regular maintenance.  If the filter was clear of lint, you will need to pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.  Look for lint build up in the dryer vent and in the vent hose and clean if any is present.  Try running a load of laundry with the vent hose disconnected from the back of the dryer.  If the load comes out dry, you will need to check for lint build up at the wall vent connection and the homes exterior/outside vent.
3. Blower Wheel – You will need to locate the dryer’s blower wheel, inside the back dryer panel, inside the blower housing.  Note – you will need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp, unfinished metal edges.  Try turning the blower wheel by hand, the dryers drum should turn as the blower wheel is being turned.  Make sure that the blower wheel isn’t packed with lint build up, next make sure it is not stripped from the drive motor shaft or broken anywhere.
4. Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor is used to monitor the moisture in the laundry.  When the laundry is dry the moisture sensor will send a signal to the electronic control board, telling it that the laundry has finished drying.  If the moisture sensor is bad, the dryer can shut off prematurely, leaving the laundry damp or continue to run after the laundry has dried.
5. Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat is normally mounted on the dryer’s blower housing.  It is used to cycle the gas burner off and on during the drying cycle to regulate the temperature of the air entering the clothes dryer.  Using a multimeter or digital meter, you will need to test the cycling thermostat to see if it has continuity, if the test shows that it does have continuity the thermostat is good.  If the thermostat does not have any continuity, then the part has failed and will need to be replaced.
6. High-Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat is located on the dryer’s burner assembly.  It is used to monitor the dryer’s temperature and will shut the burner off if the clothes dryer gets too hot.  You will need to test the thermostat to make sure that it has continuity using a digital meter or a multimeter.  If the thermostat does not have continuity, the part is faulty and will need to be replaced with a new one.
7. Ignition Coils – The ignition coils are also referred to as the gas valve solenoid coils, they are mounted just in front of the gas burner assembly.  Their sole function is to open the gas valve and let the gas flow into the burner assembly.  If you can see that the igniter is glowing red hot and the burner won’t light, it is likely that one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils have failed and will need to be replaced.

Troubleshooting an Inglis dryer that is drying slow – (video)