The broil element is located in the top of the Kenmore oven compartment, it is used for cooking at high heat. The oven broil element will usually last longer than the bake element.
If you have noticed that the broil element in your Kenmore oven or range is not heating you will need to examine the element for any signs of obvious damage, such as blistering or bubbling on the broil elements smooth outer surface. Are there any cracks or splits in the element? Sometimes the element will break in half or melt in spots. If you do not see any visual damage you will need to continue on with the next step testing the element for continuity.
Before proceeding any further always disconnect the electricity before working on any electrical appliances. Disconnect the electricity to the oven. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle or flipping the breaker off. Make sure the electricity is turned off to the unit. USE EXTREME CAUTION! YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS.
To gain access to the broil element, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Begin by removing the screws that secure the element to the back of the oven’s cavity. Slide the element forward and inspect the wires on the broil element terminals. Make certain that the wires are not burnt or the terminal ends aren’t loose or burnt, remove the screws from the terminal ends or pull the wires off of the broil element terminals, which ever the case may be. Using a multimeter set the Range scale to the lowest ohms setting. Place the probes on the element terminals, there should be continuity. The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer according to the size of the unit and the wattage used, but the reading should generally be between 10 to 75 OHMS. If you do not get a reading on the multimeter, the element does not have continuity and will need to be replaced with a new Kenmore broil element.
Testing An Oven Broil Element For Continuity
Kenmore Oven Broil Element
Your GE oven, range or cooktop will eventually need a repair part or two, sometimes they are
very easy to install. Your average GE range bake element will usually last
8 years or longer.
GE range and oven bake elements, under normal use, will usually work for eight years or more, broil elements usually hold up much longer. It is not unusual to see GE oven/range units that are twenty years old or older that have never needed any repair parts.
Here are some GE oven repair tips.
Remember to always unplug or disconnect all electrical appliances before attempting any repairs.
If the bake or broil element in your GE oven or range is not working
and you can’t see any exterior damage such as a small hole or a break in the element
where it has shorted out or any other obvious damage, it may have a wire
that has come off of the terminal clips on the element or one of the wires may have shorted
where it connects to the bake unit terminals. Since a lot of people buy GE stove, range and oven parts
only to find out later that the problem was a burnt wire, it might save you an
unnecessary oven repair parts expense if you check this out before purchasing new parts.
GE Oven Bake Elements
If you have an ohm meter (available at most hardware stores) you can check
oven-range-stove element for resistance. Usually if it shows resistance it is an indicator
that the burner is good and the problem may be in the oven, range, stove selector
switch or thermostat.
Your GE range or stove surface unit parts, as shown above, may start working erratically.
If this is so, The terminal ends on the stove burner may be charred or burnt. This will cause the range
burner to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block it plugs into. It is quite often
better to replace both range parts. If the terminals on the surface unit are burnt then the contacts
on the block are probably burnt also. If new part is used with a burnt terminal block these
range, stove repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.
If your GE range or cooktop surface unit switch becomes defective,
your burner may stay at high heat when you turn it on, even if you
have it at a low setting. Of course the burner element may not come on at all when the switch
is turned on. Repeat, the main symptoms when these range, stove parts become defective is
too much heat or no heat.
These oven, stove, range terminals are installed with ceramic wire nuts that usually
come with the parts kit, along with installation instructions.
To obtain the best repair results when using wire nuts, make sure each wire you are
connecting to each other is bright and shiny. You may need to use sandpaper
on the wires to achieve this result.
Bad GE Bake Element
The oven control board/circuit board controls most functions of the oven. It can even diagnose faulty parts with error codes that will display on the touchpad..
Turn off or disconnect the power source to your oven, then remove the oven console or control panel for access to the control board.
When replacing your bad oven control board with a new control board, it is a good practice to have the new replacement board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the oven circuit boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing.
If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad control board while it is still connected in your oven for future reference, if needed.
Now that you are sure that both of the boards are the same you can transfer the wires from the old board to the new control board.
Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board you will need to replace the oven console or control panel, turn the power source back on. You will then need to program the new oven control board, following the instructions for the make and model of your oven.
The control board has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age. Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on appliances and are responsible for damage to many circuit boards. Electrical power surges and flood waters or just moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty oven circuit control board.
Electric igniters spark the surface burners on a gas stove/range. When you turn the burner on the igniter produces a clicking sound which should stop once the flame appears.
When you turn on your gas stove or range burner but it won’t quit clicking or ticking there are simple repairs but also difficult parts repairs. Not all repairs are for one model of stove so check your owners manual for your specific model instructions.
If your burner is clicking but not igniting check to make certain the burner cap is centered on the base. If clicking is still an issue check to determine if any liquids have been spilled on the cooktop or is it possible that there may be a draft in the area.
A clicking sound will occur if there is no gas, check to see that the gas supply is open to the burner. If the burner ports on your stove are clogged this may prevent ignition and your ignitor may continue clicking. If that is the problem you can clean out debris and buildup from the ports using a metal pin.
If moisture is in the burner ports the burner won’t ignite. Turn off the gas supply and use a hairdryer set on the cool cycle to dry the burners.
A weak igniter or intermittent igniter spark means you will need a new spark module. If some burners spark but some don’t it’s usually an indication that the spark ignition switch may need to be replaced.
Bad spark electrodes can be the cause of constant clicking. This may be something that you may prefer calling a qualified appliance repair person to fix.
A convection fan in your oven circulates the air and keeps the temperature more even. It helps cook food faster because the circulating air transfers heat faster to the food being baked in the oven.
Replacing the convection fan motor is a relatively simple procedure. Unplug the power cord or turn off the power supply at the breaker box. Remove the oven door by opening the door and pulling both door hinge locks toward you. Raise the door slightly and pull it toward you to completely remove the door.
Place the door on something soft with the handle side down. Remove all oven racks then remove all screws from the fan cover. Turn the fan motor assembly around to face you and remove the wires connected to the convection element, disconnect the wire connector for a complete release of the assembly.
Install the new convection fan motor assembly connecting the wire connector first then attach wires to terminals and place the assembly on the back of the oven. Replace the fan cover and replace all of the screws around the cover. Replace oven racks and replace oven door by inserting the door hinges into the door slots, holding the door at an angle and lower the door to its fully open position and push the hinge locks forward into place.
Plug the power cord back in or switch power supply back on.
Maytag stove surface element isn’t heating or working properly, here is some repair help for some of the most common no heating problems with your Maytag stove/range
Always make sure that the surface elements on your stove are not hot and have cooled down before handling them. If one or more of the surface elements have stopped working on your oven or stove/cooktop you can do a visual check by simply looking to see if there is a break in the element or if the element has bubbling, a burned hole or blistering. If the surface element does have visible damage, more than likely it is bad. However, you can’t always tell if an element is good or bad by just examining it with your eyes.
Check to make sure that the surface element has not become loose from the terminal block that it is plugged into. Some surface elements simply plug into the receptacle – terminal block requiring no tools for removal or replacement. Other elements have a screw attaching them to the receptacle – terminal block. Make sure that the screws are tight and have not come loose, a regular or Phillips head screw driver will be required.
If the coil surface element still does not heat up after the above procedures have been performed you will need to do a continuity test. If you have a multi meter or OHM meter you can check the element for continuity, if the element shows continuity then it is good. If it shows no continuity then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.
If the damage is on the terminal ends of the element with corrosion buildup or signs of charred or burnt spots it is a good idea to replace the terminals as well or else you might not have good electrical contact after the new element has been installed.
If you have checked the element for continuity and it is good, next you need to check the receptacle terminals and wires for obvious damage such as burnt spots, melted plastic, arching or corrosion, if damage is found you need to replace the terminal block with a new one. If you have checked the coil element and the terminal block receptacle and have determined that they are both good and in working order, you will need to check the infinite switch – surface burner switch for continuity. It is the switch that the coil element selector knob is attached to on the console or top of your oven/stove, depending on the make and model. If the switch is bad replace it with a new one.
More stove/range/oven repair help
Above I have listed the most common reasons why range/stove surface elements will not heat or function properly. If you are not able to repair your stove/range with the repair help that I have listed above you should call a reputable and qualified service technician who can, hopefully get your oven back in working order.
Maytag Stove Surface Element