Select Page
My Gas Stove’s Igniter Keeps Clicking

My Gas Stove’s Igniter Keeps Clicking

Electric igniters spark the surface burners on a gas stove.  When you turn the burner on the igniter produces a clicking or ticking sound which should stop once the flame appears.

 

When you turn on you gas stove’s burner but it won’t quit clicking or ticking there are simple repairs but also difficult parts repairs.  Not all repairs are for one model of stove so check your owners manual for your specific model instructions.

If your burner is clicking but not igniting check to make certain the burner cap is centered on the base.  If clicking is still an issue check to determine if any liquids have been spilled on the cooktop or is it possible that there may be a draft in the area.

A clicking sound will occur if there is no gas, check to see that the gas supply is open to the burner.  If the burner ports on your stove are clogged this may prevent ignition and your ignitor may continue clicking.  If that is the problem you can clean out debris and buildup from the ports using a metal pin.

If moisture is in the burner ports the burner won’t ignite.  Turn off the gas supply and use a hairdryer set on the cool cycle to dry the burners.

A weak igniter or intermittent igniter spark means you will need a new spark module.  If some burners spark but some don’t it’s usually an indication that the spark ignition switch may need to be replaced.

Bad spark electrodes can be the cause of constant clicking.  This may be something that you may prefer calling a qualified appliance repair person to fix.

Whirlpool Gas Oven Not Baking Evenly

Whirlpool Gas Oven Not Baking Evenly

A convection fan in your oven circulates the air and keeps the temperature more even.  It helps cook food faster because the circulating air transfers heat faster to the food being baked in the oven.

Replacing the convection fan motor is a relatively simple procedure.  Unplug the power cord or turn off the power supply at the breaker box.  Remove the oven door by opening the door and pulling both door hinge locks toward you.  Raise the door slightly and pull it toward you to completely remove the door.

Place the door on something soft with the handle side down.  Remove all oven racks then remove all screws from the fan cover.  Turn the fan motor assembly around to face you and remove the wires connected to the convection element, disconnect the wire connector for a complete release of the assembly.

Install the new convection fan motor assembly connecting the wire connector first then attach wires to terminals and place the assembly on the back of the oven.  Replace the fan cover and replace all of the screws around the cover.  Replace oven racks and  replace oven door by inserting the door hinges into the door slots, holding the door at an angle and lower the door to its fully open position and push the hinge locks forward into place.

Plug the power cord back in or switch power supply back on.

Job Completed!

Maytag Stove Surface Element Isn’t Working

Maytag Stove Surface Element Isn’t Working

Maytag stove surface element isn’t heating or working properly, here is some repair help for some of the most common no heating problems with your Maytag stove/range

 

Always make sure that the surface elements on your stove are not hot and have cooled down before handling them.  If one or more of the surface elements have stopped working on your oven or stove/cooktop you can do a visual check by simply looking to see if there is a break in the element or if the element has bubbling, a burned hole or blistering.  If the surface element does have visible damage, more than likely it is bad.  However, you can’t always tell if an element is good or bad by just examining it with your eyes.

Check to make sure that the surface element has not become loose from the terminal block that it is plugged into.  Some surface elements simply plug into the receptacle – terminal block requiring no tools for removal or replacement.  Other elements have a screw attaching them to the receptacle – terminal block.  Make sure that the screws are tight and have not come loose, a regular or Phillips head screw driver will be required.

If the coil surface element still does not heat up after the above procedures have been performed you will need to do a continuity test.  If you have a multi meter or OHM meter you can check the element for continuity, if the element shows continuity then it is good.  If it shows no continuity then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

If the damage is on the terminal ends of the element with corrosion buildup or signs of charred or burnt spots it is a good idea to replace the terminals as well or else you might not have good electrical contact after the new element has been installed.

If you have checked the element for continuity and it is good, next you need to check the receptacle terminals and wires for obvious damage such as burnt spots, melted plastic, arching or corrosion, if damage is found you need to replace the terminal block with a new one.  If you have checked the coil element and the terminal block receptacle and have determined that they are both good and in working order, you will need to check the infinite switch – surface burner switch for continuity.  It is the switch that the coil element selector knob is attached to on the console or top of your oven/stove, depending on the make and model.  If the switch is bad replace it with a new one.

More stove/range/oven repair help

Above I have listed the most common reasons why range/stove surface elements will not heat or function properly.  If you are not able to repair your stove/range with the repair help that I have listed above you should call a reputable and qualified service technician who can, hopefully get your oven back in working order.

Maytag Stove Surface Element

GE Stove Surface Element Not Working

GE Stove Surface Element Not Working

If your GE stove surface element is not heating or functioning properly, this is some repair advice for the most common GE stove/range problems you might have.

 

Always make sure that the surface elements are not hot and have cooled down before handling them.  If one of the surface elements has stopped working on your oven or stove/cooktop you can simply do a visual check and see if there is a break in the element or if the element has bubbling, a burned hole or blistering.  If the surface element does have visible damage it is likely bad.  However, you can’t always tell if an element is good or bad by just examining it with your eyes.

Check to make sure that the surface element has not come loose from the terminal block that it is plugged into.  Some surface elements simply plug into the receptacle – terminal block requiring no tools for removal or replacement.  Other elements have a screw attaching them to the receptacle – terminal block.  Make sure that the screws are tight and have not come loose, a regular or Phillips head screw driver will be required.

If the coil surface element still does not heat up after the above procedures have been performed you will need to do a continuity test.  If you have a multi meter or OHM meter you can check the element for continuity, if the element shows continuity then it is good.  If it shows no continuity then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

If the damage is on the terminal ends of the element with corrosion buildup or signs of charred or burnt spots it is a good idea to replace the terminals as well or else you might not have good electrical contact after the new element has been installed.

If you have checked the element for continuity and it is good, next you need to check the receptacle terminals and wires for obvious damage such as burnt spots, melted plastic, arching or corrosion. If damage is found you need to replace the terminal block with a new one.  If you have checked the coil element and the terminal block receptacle and have determined that they are both good and in working order, you will need to check the infinite switch – surface burner switch for continuity.  It is the switch that the coil element selector knob is attached to on the console or top of your oven/stove, depending on the make and model.  If the switch is bad replace it with a new one.

More stove/range/oven repair help

Above I have listed the most common reasons why a stove/range surface element will not heat or function properly.  If you are not able to repair your stove/range with the repair help that I have listed above you should call a reputable and qualified service technician who can, hopefully, get your oven back in working order.

The surface element, also known as the coil surface element, transfers heat to the area on top of range.

 

GE Oven Showing F1 And Beeping

GE Oven Showing F1 And Beeping

If your GE oven is showing F1 on the touchpad or keypad on the top of your oven along with an annoying beeping, sound this might help you fix the problem.

This is an error code that indicates there is a problem or malfunction with your GE oven or stove.  But this does not always require an appliance technician or a service repair call.
Here are a few simple things that you can try yourself to fix this issue.
Push the cancel button on your oven or stove key pad, if this procedure worked, the beeping sound and the F1 code will have disappeared.  If step (1) did not solve the issue let’s move on to step (2)
If your oven or stove has a cord that is plugged into the wall socket you can unplug it from the outlet for 10 or 20 minutes.  After this time you can plug the oven cord back into the electrical outlet and see if this has solved your problem.  However, your oven may not have a regular extension cord that plugs into a wall outlet/socket.  This means that it is hard wired into the electrical box.  If this is the case on your oven you will need to locate the circuit breaker in your homes fuse box that supplies electricity to your oven/range or stove.
You will need to flip the circuit breaker to off position for 10 to 20 minutes.  After this time you can flip the circuit breaker back to the on position.  If this does not solve the problem of the F1 and beeping sound this means that the Oven Control Board  Electronic Oven Control (EOC) has failed or the oven temperature sensor is bad.
If you are not comfortable and have any doubts whatsoever with any of the tasks listed above, please do not attempt these procedures.  Call a reputable, qualified appliance service technician to install these GE oven replacement parts.
Oven/Stove/Cooktop Repair Help

Oven/Stove/Cooktop Repair Help

Your stove, oven or cooktop will eventually need a repair part or two, sometimes they are
very easy to install.  Your average range surface burner will usually last
6 years or longer.

Range and oven bake elements, under normal use, will usually work for eight years or more.
Broil units usually hold up much longer. It is not unusual to see stove-oven-range units that are twenty years old or older that have never needed any repair parts.

Range, Oven, Cook Top Repair Help

Some oven repair tips.

If the bake or broil element in your oven or range is not working
and you can’t see any exterior damage such as a small hole or a break in the element
where it has shorted out or any other obvious parts damage, it may have a wire
that has come off of the terminal clips on the element or one of the wires may have shorted
where it connects to the bake unit terminals. Since a lot of people buy stove, range and oven parts
only to find out later that the problem was a burnt wire, it might save you an
unnecessary oven repair parts expense if you check this out before purchasing new parts.

Oven Bake Elements

If you have an ohm meter (available at most hardware stores) you can check
oven-range-stove element for resistance.  Usually if it shows resistance it is an indicator
that the burner is good and the problem may be in the oven, range, stove selector
switch or thermostat.

Surface Element Burner

Your oven, range or stove surface unit parts as shown above may start working erratically.
If this is so, The terminal ends on the stove burner may be charred or burnt. This will cause the range
burner to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block it plugs into. It is quite often
better to replace both range parts. If the terminals on the surface unit are burnt then the contacts
on the block are probably burnt also. If new part is used with a burnt terminal block these
range, oven repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.

 

Range/Stove/Cooktop Surface Element Switch

If your oven, range, stove or cooktop surface unit switch such as the one shown above
becomes defective, your burner may stay at high heat when you turn it on, even if you
have it at a low setting.  Of course the burner element may not come on at all when the switch
is turned on.   Repeat, the main symptoms when these range, stove parts become defective is
too much heat or no heat.

Range/Stove/Cooktop Surface Burner Terminal Block

 

These oven, stove, range  terminals are installed with ceramic wire nuts that usually
come with the parts kit, along with installation instructions.
To obtain the best repair results when using wire nuts, make sure each wire you are
connecting to each other is bright and shiny.  You may need to use sandpaper
on the wires to achieve this result.