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Range/Cooktop Radiant Heating Element

Range/Cooktop Radiant Heating Element

If your cooktop or range has a radiant heating element or coil element that is not heating, you need to check the heating element for visual signs of damage.

 

You will need to locate the element under the cooktop surface that is not heating up and visually inspect it thoroughly to determine weather or not it has any damage.  Look for cracks, burnt or chard spots on the element or a break in the radiant element coil.

If you have done a thorough visual inspection of the element and do not find any obvious damage, you will then need to do a continuity test with a multi-meter and determine weather or not the heating element has continuity or not.

If the element has continuity, then it is good and element should function properly, If the element tests show that it does not have continuity then it is bad and you will need to replace it with a new radiant surface element.

If your oven, range, stove or cooktop surface unit switch/infinite switch becomes defective, the element may stay on high heat when you turn it on, even if you have it set at the lowest setting.  Of course, the heating element may not come on at all when the switch is turned on.  The main symptoms when the switch becomes defective is too much heat or no heat.

If your stove, range or cooktops radiant element starts working erratically, the terminal wire ends on the range and element may be burnt or charred. This will cause the range element to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block that it plugs into. It is quite often better to replace both of the range parts. If the terminal ends on the element unit are burnt then the contacts on the block are probably burnt also. If a new element is used with a burnt terminal block these repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.

Range Surface Element Control Switch

Range Surface Element Control Switch

The surface control switch on your range controls and sends voltage to the surface element. Signs of a bad surface control switch are, the surface element may stay at high heat.

 

The surface element may stay at high heat no matter what setting you have the selector knob on the switch set at.  You might not be able to turn the surface

element on or off at all.  If the surface element is acting erratically, the surface element control switch, also known as the infinite control switch, is the main culprit and should be replaced.

GE Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair Help

GE Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair Help

Your GE oven, range or cooktop will eventually need a repair part or two, sometimes they are
very easy to install.  Your average GE range bake element will usually last
8 years or longer.

GE range and oven bake elements, under normal use, will usually work for eight years or more, broil elements usually hold up much longer. It is not unusual to see GE oven/range units that are twenty years old or older that have never needed any repair parts.

Here are some GE oven repair tips.

Remember to always unplug or disconnect all electrical appliances before attempting any repairs.

If the bake or broil element in your GE oven or range is not working
and you can’t see any exterior damage such as a small hole or a break in the element
where it has shorted out or any other obvious damage, it may have a wire
that has come off of the terminal clips on the element or one of the wires may have shorted
where it connects to the bake unit terminals. Since a lot of people buy GE stove, range and oven parts
only to find out later that the problem was a burnt wire, it might save you an
unnecessary oven repair parts expense if you check this out before purchasing new parts.

GE Oven Bake Elements

If you have an ohm meter (available at most hardware stores) you can check
oven-range-stove element for resistance.  Usually if it shows resistance it is an indicator
that the burner is good and the problem may be in the oven, range, stove selector
switch or thermostat.

Your GE range or stove surface unit parts, as shown above, may start working erratically.
If this is so, The terminal ends on the stove burner may be charred or burnt. This will cause the range
burner to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block it plugs into. It is quite often
better to replace both range parts. If the terminals on the surface unit are burnt then the contacts
on the block are probably burnt also. If new part is used with a burnt terminal block these
range, stove repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.

If your GE range or cooktop surface unit switch becomes defective,
your burner may stay at high heat when you turn it on, even if you
have it at a low setting.  Of course the burner element may not come on at all when the switch
is turned on.   Repeat, the main symptoms when these range, stove parts become defective is
too much heat or no heat.

 

These oven, stove, range terminals are installed with ceramic wire nuts that usually
come with the parts kit, along with installation instructions.
To obtain the best repair results when using wire nuts, make sure each wire you are
connecting to each other is bright and shiny.  You may need to use sandpaper
on the wires to achieve this result.

Bad GE Bake Element

Range/Stove/Cooktop Surface Element

Range/Stove/Cooktop Surface Element

If you have a cooktop, range or stove with a radiant element or coil element that is not heating, you need to check the heating element for visual signs of damage.

 

You will need to locate the element that is not heating up and visually inspect it very thoroughly to determine weather or not it has any damage.  Look for cracks, burnt or chard spots, blistering on the element or a break in the coil.

If you have done a thorough visual inspection of the element and do not find any obvious damage, you will then need to do a continuity test with a multi-meter to determine weather or not the heating element has continuity.

If the element has continuity, then it is good and should function properly, If the element tests no continuity then it is bad and you will need a new surface heating element.

 If your oven, range, stove or cooktop surface unit switch becomes defective, your burner may stay at high heat when you turn it on, even if you have it at a low setting.  Of course, the burner element may not come on at all when the switch is turned on.  The main symptoms when the switch becomes defective is too much heat or no heat.

If your stove, range or cooktop surface unit starts working erratically, the terminal ends on the stove and element may be charred or burnt. This will cause the range burner to lose electrical contact at times with the terminal block it plugs into. It is quite often better to replace both range parts. If the terminals on the surface unit are burnt then the contacts on the block are probably burnt also. If a new part is used with a burnt terminal block these repair parts may not last very long or give proper service.

Oven Control Board/Circuit Board Replacement

Oven Control Board/Circuit Board Replacement

The oven control board/circuit board controls most functions of the oven.  It can even diagnose faulty parts with error codes that will display on the touchpad..

 

Turn off or disconnect the power source to your oven, then remove the oven console or control panel for access to the control board.

When replacing your bad oven control board with a new control board, it is a good practice to have the new replacement board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the oven circuit boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing.

If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad control board while it is still connected in your oven for future reference, if needed.

Now that you are sure that both of the boards are the same you can transfer the wires from the old board to the new control board.

Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board you will need to replace the oven console or control panel, turn the power source back on.  You will then need to program the new oven control board, following the instructions for the make and model of your oven.

The control board has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age.  Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on appliances and are responsible for damage to many circuit boards.  Electrical power surges and flood waters or just moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty oven circuit control board.

Gas Range/Stove Igniter Keeps Clicking

Gas Range/Stove Igniter Keeps Clicking

Electric igniters spark the surface burners on a gas stove/range.  When you turn the burner on the igniter produces a clicking sound which should stop once the flame appears.

 

When you turn on your gas stove or range burner but it won’t quit clicking or ticking there are simple repairs but also difficult parts repairs.  Not all repairs are for one model of stove so check your owners manual for your specific model instructions.

If your burner is clicking but not igniting check to make certain the burner cap is centered on the base.  If clicking is still an issue check to determine if any liquids have been spilled on the cooktop or is it possible that there may be a draft in the area.

A clicking sound will occur if there is no gas, check to see that the gas supply is open to the burner.  If the burner ports on your stove are clogged this may prevent ignition and your ignitor may continue clicking.  If that is the problem you can clean out debris and buildup from the ports using a metal pin.

If moisture is in the burner ports the burner won’t ignite.  Turn off the gas supply and use a hairdryer set on the cool cycle to dry the burners.

A weak igniter or intermittent igniter spark means you will need a new spark module.  If some burners spark but some don’t it’s usually an indication that the spark ignition switch may need to be replaced.

Bad spark electrodes can be the cause of constant clicking.  This may be something that you may prefer calling a qualified appliance repair person to fix.