If your KitchenAid washer’s not spinning during the spin cycles, use the following troubleshooting steps to help you locate the problem, fix or replace the faulty part or parts and get your washer to spin properly again.
WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any washer yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death. Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it. If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it. Be aware that washers have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death. Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in washer repair besides those listed above. We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further. Think safety first!
KitchenAid Top Load Washer
Step (1.) Motor Coupling
You will need to inspect the motor coupling if your washer is a direct drive machine, meaning that the washer does not use a belt. The motor coupling is used between the washer’s motor and transmission, it is a three-piece component, consisting of (2) drive plates and (1) rubber bushing. One of the drive plates is used on the washer’s motor shaft and the other drive plate is used on the transmission shaft, with the rubber bushing being located between both of the plates. The most common symptoms of a broken washer motor coupler are, the washer’s tub will fill with water and drain the water, but it will not agitate or spin the wash basket. Troubleshooting tip – A tell-tail sign of a broken motor coupling is, you might see small pieces of black rubber and bits of white plastic on the floor under the drain pump, this indicates a worn-out motor coupling. You will need to tilt the machine back just enough to be able to see this and the pump and motor will need to be removed to replace the motor coupling if it is bad.
Step (2.) Lid Switch
Inspect the lid switch that is located under the lid on top load washer models. Make sure that the switch is not broken, test the switch for continuity using an analog multimeter or a digital meter. Repair Tip – A digital test meter can be purchased fairly cheap online or from almost any of your local hardware stores. It is a real time saver when troubleshooting the numerous electrical parts on a clothes washer. If the lid switch has continuity and has no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good. If the lid switch does not have continuity, the part is defective and the washer won’t spin. You will need to replace the lid switch to fix the problem.
Step (3.) Drive Belt
Inspect the washer’s drive belt that goes from the drive motor to the drain pump pulley, if the washer is belt driven. If the belt is worn or broken, replace the belt.
Step (4.) Drain Pump Pulley
If your washing machine’s pump is belt driven, inspect the pump pulley to make sure that it is not ceased up or loose and worn out. If the pulley is damaged the machine may not drain the water from the wash tub.
Step (5.) Clutch Assembly
Inspect the clutch assembly, used on some models, for wear to make sure that the clutch is engaging properly. If the clutch becomes worn out the washing machine will not be able to spin.
KitchenAid Front Load Washer
Step (1.) Door Lock Switch Assembly
The door lock switch is used on a front load washer to lock the door while the washer is in operation. The door switch is used to communicate the status of the door to the washer’s main control board, known as the brain of the washer. If your front load washer won’t start a cycle, stops in the middle of a cycle or the washer will not spin, the door switch should be tested for continuity. Visually inspect the door switch to make sure that it is not obviously damaged or broken. If it is not broken, then you will need to test the switch for continuity using an analog multimeter or a digital meter. If the door lock switch does have continuity and shows no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good. If the switch does not have continuity, the part is bad and it will need to be replaced with a new door switch. Troubleshooting tip – If you don’t have a test meter, a digital meter can be purchased reasonably cheap online or from one of the bigger hardware stores. A test meter is a real time and money saver while troubleshooting the various electrical parts on a washer. Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad quickly, instead of assuming that a part is faulty and replacing it, only to find out that part wasn’t bad and the problem lies elsewhere with another part.
Step (2.) Drive Belt
You will need to inspect the washer’s drive belt that goes around the washer’s motor pulley and the wash tub drive pulley, if the belt is broken the washer won’t spin. If the belt is broken, you will need to replace it with a new belt to get your washer spinning again. The belt is located inside the back of the washer cabinet and the back panel will need to be removed to gain access to the belt to remove and replace it.
Step (3.) Motor Control Unit (MCU)
A motor control unit is a hard part to troubleshoot by testing with a test meter. You will need to visually inspect the electrical components in the motor control unit (MCU), also known as the motor control board. Look for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted electrical component inside of the control unit. If any obvious signs of damage are found, the motor control unit is most likely faulty and it will need to be replaced
Step (4.) Stator and Rotor
A stator and rotor are used on some front load washing machines. If your washer’s not spinning, you will need to inspect the stator and rotor for visual signs of damage. If the stators electrical wires or the rotors magnets are damaged or worn out, it can keep the washer’s tub from spinning or agitating properly.
Step (5.) Drive Motor
You will need to inspect the washer’s drive motor. The motor should run quiet and turn smooth and freely. Some common symptoms of a bad motor are, the motor is loud, the motor just hums and won’t spin, it won’t spin freely or the motor will seize up and won’t spin at all. If your washer’s motor has any of these symptoms the motor is bad and will need to be replaced.