If your Kenmore refrigerator has stopped running and it will not start again, follow these troubleshooting steps to help you locate where the problem is so you can fix or replace the defective part or parts and get your refrigerator up and running again.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any refrigerator yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  If you are attempting to repair any household gas appliances yourself, always be sure to turn off the gas that is designated to the appliance before you ever begin to repair it.  Be aware that refrigerators have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved with a refrigerator repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Think safety first!

Kenmore Refrigerator

Step-1. Incoming Electricity

If your Kenmore refrigerator will not run or the compressor is not kicking on, first you will need to begin by troubleshooting the simple repair solutions.  Step (1) Open the refrigerator door to see if the interior light is working, if the refrigerator light is working, you can move on to step (2), if the interior light is not coming on and the fridge is not running you will need look for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker in your homes main circuit breaker box.   If you do not have a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker you will need to test the electrical wall outlet with a voltmeter.  If you do not have a test meter, try plugging something else that runs on 110 volts into the outlet to see if the outlet is faulty or working properly.  If you do have a test meter, the wall receptacle test should check at 115V plus or minus 10 percent.  If the receptacle is bad you will need to replace it with a new one.

Step-2. Overload or Relay Start Capacitor

If you can hear a clicking sound coming from the bottom of the refrigerator and you can see the fan working but the compressor is not kicking on, it could be that either the start relay or the run capacitor have failed, they are both mounted onto the side of the refrigerator’s compressor.  The start relay is used to help start the compressor, it is used as a jump start device, if the overload or relay start capacitor is not working the compressor will not start running.

Step-3. Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat is located inside of the refrigerator section.  You will need to look for the control dial that has the word off printed on the face of it.  This is the control that turns the compressor on and off, now go ahead and turn the dial or knob to the off position, then turn it back to the on position.  Did the compressor kick back on?   If the compressor did not start you will need to test the thermostat using a test meter.  Testing the temperature control thermostat – Place the meter probes on the thermostat’s terminals, set the range scale on (R x I) and test the part for continuity.  With the control dial set in the off position, you should not read any continuity, when the control dial is set to the highest position, you should read continuity on the meter.  If the control thermostat does not have any continuity, it will need to be replaced with a new part.  If the test shows that it does have continuity, more troubleshooting will need to be performed on the refrigerator.

Step-4. Electronic Control Board

You will need to inspect the refrigerators electronic control board, only used on some modern refrigerator models, the electronic control board can be a very difficult part to test.  The control board is a very intricate electrical part, sometimes a hairline fracture in a tiny, soldered spot can cause the whole board to fail.  you won’t even be able to see the fracture in the solder without using a magnifying glass.  You can visually inspect both the front and back sides of the control board, you should be looking for a loose wire harness connection or a burnt or melted electrical component on the control board.  If any obvious damage to the board is found, the part is more than likely faulty and will need to be replaced with a new part.

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