York Central Air Conditioner Circuit Board Replacement

York Central Air Conditioner Circuit Board Replacement

The circuit board on your York central air conditioner can go bad without any warning sign or symptoms just like a light bulb burns out at the flip of a switch.

 

The central air conditioner circuit board is also known by many different names throughout the (HVAC) Heating Ventilation and Air Condition Industry.

Control Module, Control Board, Circuit Board, Mother Board.

Turn off or disconnect the power source to your central air conditioner then remove the access panels from the unit.

When replacing the bad central air conditioner circuit board with a new circuit board it is a good practice to have the new replacement board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the circuit/control boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing it.

If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad circuit board while it is still connected in your unit for future reference, if needed.

Now that you know that both of the circuit boards are the same, hold the new one up close to the old one and begin transferring the wires from the old board to the new one, one at a time, using a pair of needle nose pliers.  You will need a screwdriver to disconnect the screws for your small gauge thermostat wires.  While transferring and reconnecting the thermostat wires, make sure that the outer plastic coating is cut back far enough from the tip of the bare wires so that when you connect them to the new circuit board you only have bare copper wire touching the plate while you tighten the screws down for a good electrical connection.

Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old circuit board to the new replacement board you will need to loosen or take the screws out of the bad circuit board housing or mounting panel.  Once it is loose and free from the unit you will need to turn it over and release the circuit board from the back of the mounting panel then simply align the new board pins with the holes in the mounting panel and snap it into place.

Now, position the mounting panel back onto the furnace and tighten the screws back.  Replace all of the access panels and secure them.  Turn the power source back on and your central air conditioner should be good to go and ready for use.

 

The circuit board on your York central air conditioner unit has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age.  Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on household appliances and are responsible for damage to many appliance circuit boards.  Electrical power surges and flood waters or moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty circuit board.

 

 

Carrier Furnace Main Control Board Replacement

Carrier Furnace Main Control Board Replacement

The furnace main control board on your Carrier furnace can go bad without any warning sign or symptoms just like a light bulb burns out at the flip of a switch.

 

The furnace main control board is also known by many different names throughout the (HVAC) Heating Ventilation and Air Condition Industry.

Furnace Control Module, Furnace Control Board, Furnace Circuit Board, Furnace Mother Board.

Turn off or disconnect the power source to your furnace then remove the furnace access panels.

When replacing your bad furnace main control board with a new control board it is a good practice to have the new replacement board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the circuit/control boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing it.

If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad control board while it is still connected in your furnace for future reference, if needed.

Now that you know that both of the control boards are the same, hold the new one up close to the old one and begin transferring the wires from the old board to the new one, one at a time, using a pair of needle nose pliers.  You will need a screwdriver to disconnect the screws for your small gauge thermostat wires.  While transferring and reconnecting the thermostat wires, make sure that the outer plastic coating is cut back far enough from the tip of the bare wires so that when you connect them to the new control module you only have bare copper wire touching the plate while you tighten the screws down for a good electrical connection.

Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old control board to the new replacement board you will need to loosen or take the screws out of the bad control board housing or mounting panel.  Once it is loose and free from the furnace you will need to turn it over and release the control board from the back of the mounting panel then simply align the new control board pins with the holes in the mounting panel and snap it into place.

Now, position the mounting panel back onto the furnace and tighten the screws back.  Replace all of the access panels and secure them.  Turn the power source back on and your furnace should be good to go and ready for use.

Carrier Furnace Main Control Board

The control board on your Carrier heater has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age.  Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on household appliances and are responsible for damage to many appliance circuit boards.  Electrical power surges and flood waters or moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty circuit control board.

 

 

GE Oven Showing F1 And Beeping

GE Oven Showing F1 And Beeping

If your GE oven is showing F1 on the touchpad or keypad on the top of your oven along with an annoying beeping, sound this might help you fix the problem.

This is an error code that indicates there is a problem or malfunction with your GE oven or stove.  But this does not always require an appliance technician or a service repair call.
Here are a few simple things that you can try yourself to fix this issue.
Push the cancel button on your oven or stove key pad, if this procedure worked, the beeping sound and the F1 code will have disappeared.  If step (1) did not solve the issue let’s move on to step (2)
If your oven or stove has a cord that is plugged into the wall socket you can unplug it from the outlet for 10 or 20 minutes.  After this time you can plug the oven cord back into the electrical outlet and see if this has solved your problem.  However, your oven may not have a regular extension cord that plugs into a wall outlet/socket.  This means that it is hard wired into the electrical box.  If this is the case on your oven you will need to locate the circuit breaker in your homes fuse box that supplies electricity to your oven/range or stove.
You will need to flip the circuit breaker to off position for 10 to 20 minutes.  After this time you can flip the circuit breaker back to the on position.  If this does not solve the problem of the F1 and beeping sound this means that the Oven Control Board  Electronic Oven Control (EOC) has failed or the oven temperature sensor is bad.
If you are not comfortable and have any doubts whatsoever with any of the tasks listed above, please do not attempt these procedures.  Call a reputable, qualified appliance service technician to install these GE oven replacement parts.
Furnace Control Board Replacement…

Furnace Control Board Replacement…

The Furnace Control Board can go bad without any warning sign or tell tale symptoms just like a light bulb can burn out when you flip a switch on.

 

The furnace control board is also known by many different names throughout the (HVAC) Heating Ventilation and Air Condition Industry.

Furnace Control Module, Furnace Control Board, Furnace Circuit Board, Furnace Mother Board.

Turn off or disconnect the power source to your furnace then remove the access panels.

When replacing your bad furnace control board with a new replacement control board it is a good practice to have the new replacement board out of its packaging or box and to hold it in front of the old board so that you can examine both of the circuit boards and make certain that they are the same before pulling any wires loose from the existing board and replacing.

If you are not familiar with all of the wires that are connected and will need to be disconnected and transferred from one board to the other, have your phone handy and snap a few good photos of the bad control module while it is still connected in your furnace for future reference, if needed.

Now that you know that both of the boards are the same, hold the new one up close to the old one and start transferring the wires from the old board to the

OEM Furnace Control Board

new one, one at a time, using a pair of needle nose plyers.  You will need a screwdriver to disconnect the screws for your small gauge thermostat wires.  While transferring and reconnecting the thermostat wires, make sure that the outer plastic coating is cut back far enough from the tip of the bare wires so that when you connect them to the new control module you only have bare copper wire touching the plate while you tighten the screws down for a good electrical connection.

Once you have transferred all of the wires from the old board to the new replacement control board you will need to loosen or take the screws out of the control boards housing or mounting panel.  Once it is loose and free from the furnace you will need to turn it over and release the control board from the back of the mounting panel then simply align the new control board pins with the holes in the mounting panel and snap it into place.

Now, position the mounting panel back onto the furnace and tighten the screws back.  Replace all of the access panels and secure them.  Turn the power source back on and your furnace should be good to go and ready for use.

The control board has a life span just like any other household appliance parts do and can wear out from use and age.  Lightning storms/strikes cause a lot of havoc on appliances and are responsible for damage to many circuit boards.  Electrical power surges and flood waters or just moisture/condensation can also be to blame for a faulty circuit control board.

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Helpful tips and clothes dryer diagnostic advice below with troubleshooting suggestions for the Do-It-Yourselfer. See photos of common Whirlpool and Kenmore clothes dryer repair techniques.

Some of the General Diagnostic Repair Tips presented below may also apply for your,
GE, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef and Frigidaire electric clothes dryer.

Kenmore Dryer Repair Tips
Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Caution:

The diagnostic help out lined below is intended to be used only by professional appliance repair technicians.

If you are attempting to repair your clothes dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potential dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious injury or death. Be aware that appliance parts have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious injury or death.

Always remove/disconnect the power source from the unit you are working on. Unplug it! When unplugging or removing the power source, double check to make sure you removed the proper cord or turned off the proper breaker. When tightening or loosening parts make sure that if the tool you are working with or your hand slips, you will not be injured by sharp or jagged edges.

Always keep children and pets away from working area and disassembled washer parts. Be aware that there are other hazards involved in appliance repairs besides those listed above that may cause serious injury or death. Use extreme caution when installing or removing parts.

 

A common malfunction is the dryer thermal fuse – when it gets too hot it will cause the dryer to cease/stop running and will not start again. These thermal fuses are not on all clothes dryers, they are found on most dryers made since 1986.

Clothes Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519

 

The information given below is general in nature and should not
be construed to be all inclusive nor necessarily applicable
toward your particular make or model electric clothes dryer.

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Disconnect The Dryer From It’s Power Source!

To access the inside of dryer cabinet – remove the two screws shown below,
then use a stout putty knife or regular wide screwdriver to pry the lid up.
Pulling the lid toward you while prying up will help,
then remove the two screws on the inside of the cabinet, one on each side.
See red arrow on the third picture below. These instructions apply to some dryers that do not have a kick plate on the bottom of the dryer.

If your Whirlpool dryer, Kenmore dryer has a kick plate,  this procedure may be different. Some parts can be accessed and repairs may be made after removing the kick plate. The kick plate can usually be removed with a stout putty knife by pushing in on the two retainer clips at top of the kickplate while gently pulling kickplate toward you. (some models since 1995)

Some newer models you may have to flip the console faceplate back to remove screws that allow you to remove the top and then remove front panel.

Disconnect the unit from it’s power source!

KENMORE DRYER REPAIR
WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR

REP-DRY-TOP-150x150

REP-DRY-TOPFLIP-150x150

REP-DRY-INSIDE-150x150After removing the screws (red arrow) pull the panel toward you a couple of inches, then lift up.

Check breaker box in the house. Electric (220 volt) dryer has two 110 volt circuits,  the motor will run but will not supply voltage to the element if one circuit is not on. This is usually a 30 amp double throw breaker.  Flip off and on a few times to test even if it looks like it’s on.

This is a common problem, especially in the summer.

  • Dryer runs does not heat.
  • Dryer running, is not heating.
  • Dryer will not start.
  • Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise.
  • Whirlpool and Kenmore repair diagnostic tips.
  • Dryer runs – makes loud clunking noise.
  • Dryer motor runs – the drum does not turn.
  • Heating element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  • Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common

Dryer runs but does not heat – Problems
KENMORE DRYER REPAIR    WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR
  1. Dryer heating element is shorted.  (has a break in the coil.)
    Replace the element (dryer heating element should show continuity with ohm meter.) Looking at the back, the element is located on right hand side in a long metal housing (on most older models). The housing must be removed from unit and element must be removed from the inside of the housing for  inspection. The heating element housing has a 3 1/2″ metal strap at the top that secures it to the dryer, The strap must be removed. Most common element part # 4391960.
  2. Thermal fuse is blown. Located in the back. The back cover must be removed. This thermal fuse should show continuity when checked with an ohm meter. Dryer replacement part # 279769.
  3. Dryer hi limit thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with an ohm meter provided it is cool. Most of these limits are either 250 degree shut off (L250) or 290 degree (L290) older models. T-stat limit part is located near bottom of heater housing.
  4. 01REP-DRY-FUSE2Operating thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with ohm meter provided it is cool. This t-stat limit is located on blower housing. If there is only one limit it is usually a 145 degree limit (L145). Older units may have two or three limits. These are usually dryer repair parts (L135), (L145), (L155). Dryer thermostats.
Less common problems – Dryer is running but not heating

 

WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR   KENMORE DRYER REPAIR

  1. Dryer timer is defective.
  2. Switch on the dryer motor is defective.
  3. Temperature switch on the console is defective.
  4. Solid state circuit board is defective. (dryer main control board).
  5. Dryer power cord is defective.
  6. Terminal block (where the power cord is connected to the dryer) is shorted out.
  7. Wiring shorted at the terminal block, or elsewhere.
  8. Improper voltage supplied to the power cord (house current).

02REP-DRY-HILIMIT-150x150

Dryer will not start

Most common reasons

More Whirlpool And Kenmore Dryer Repair Help

 

Make sure the dryer is plugged in and has proper voltage.

  1. Operating thermal fuse is blown – This thermal fuse should show continuity with an ohm meter, oval type part # 3390719. rectangle type Part # 3392519. located in back of the dryer on the blower housing, this picture shows the (rectangle) type.  Older models have the (oval) type, both types are made of white plastic.
  2. Door switch defective. Replace with part # 279347. Switch is on the right hand (front). Older models may be located in center.
  3. Lever that actuates dryer door switch may be broken or bent. Replace with part # 279347.

03REP-L145-150x15004REP-DRY-FUSE-150x150

Less common reasons
  1. Dryer is not plugged in.
  2. No voltage at wall socket.
  3. Dryer power cord is defective.
  4. Terminal block shorted or wires shorted else where.
  5. Wires shorted at the terminal block. (where power cord connects to the dryer).
  6. Dryer timer is defective.
  7. Solid state circuit board defective. (Main Control Board).
  8. Dryer  motor defective.
  9. Push to start switch defective. Note: This is probably the least likely reason dryer will not start. If the switch is made of clear plastic and you can see residue inside where the points have been arcing, this is normal and does not signify a bad switch. The switch when depressed should show continuity with an ohm meter.

05REP-DRY-LEVER-150x150

Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise when the Push To Start Switch is activated.

Whirlpool and Kenmore dryer repair diagnostic tips.
  1. Dryer motor may be defective. (most probable).
  2. Blower fan may be obstructed.
  3. Defective timer.
  4. Seized idler pulley or drum rollers.
  5. Defective switch on the motor. (bad motor switch)
  6. Rear drum seal is shredded, hung up on the rollers or elsewhere.
  7. Improper electrical house current.
  8. Shorted wiring or bad terminal block.
Dryer runs – makes a loud clunking noise
  1. Drum rollers are worn. – (most probable cause). Part # 349241t.
  2. Idler pulley is worn. Part # 691366.
  3. Front or rear drum seals is defective. – (rare).

06REP-DRY-SWT-150x150

More pictures that show the inside and back of your Whirlpool or Kenmore clothes dryer.

Dryer motor runs – but the drum does not turn.

Your Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer may be easy to repair.

  1. Belt broken – (most probable).
  2. Dryer idler pulley broken or dislodged.
  3. Idler pulley installed in the wrong position.
  4. Extremely stretched belt.
  5. Dryer motor pulley is loose.
  6. Dryer belt installed improperly.
Heat element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  1. Defective motor switch.
  2. Heater element coil touching heater element housing.
  3. Wiring shorted (least probable).

07REP-DRY-ROLLER31-150x150

 

Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common causes:

Clogged Clothes Dryer Lint Screen/Trap

  1. Vent hose has kink in it.
  2. Vent hose too long.
  3. Vent hose clogged.
  4. Interior house vent pipe clogged at roof or elsewhere.
  5. Flap on exterior vent is stuck or clogged.
  6. Lint filter has build-up residue on screen. (use wire brush to clean.)
  7. Lint filter not cleaned after each load.
  8. Dryer door not closed properly.
  9. Door seal missing.
  10. Back drum seal defective.
  11. Defective operating thermostat, (L145) is most common.
  12. Defective hi-limit thermostat, (L250)  (L290)  are most common.
  13. Defective timer – defective temperature select switch.
  14. Defective dryer motor switch.
  15. Intermittent operation of above electrical parts.
  16. Restricted air flow, interior cabinet air flow system.
  17. Washer not spin-drying clothes properly.
  18. Heater element housing loose from bulkhead.

This is not a complete list of causes

WHIRLPOOL DRYER PARTS

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case,  these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Dryer drum rollers & idler pulley.

Dryer part number # 439206509REP-DRY-BELT-150x150

 

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