Overloading Your Dryer Could Damage It

Overloading Your Dryer Could Damage It

If you overload your dryer you may be asking for trouble.  Putting too many clothes in your dryer may actually damage it and possibly burn out the dryer motor.

 

If your dryer shakes, vibrates, rattles or even tries to move around the room, it could be that the legs on the dryer are uneven or the floor surface is unstable but most likely it is because you have over loaded it, too many clothes!!

A number of dryers have different settings and cycles for a variety of times, fabrics and item options.  If you use the Air Dry or Air Fluff cycle and it leaves your clothes damp it is because not enough heat was produced to dry the clothes, using the wrong cycle and time setting can leave the clothes damp, also piling too many clothes into the dryer will prevent the clothes from tumbling freely and therefore prevent them from drying.  If the dryer has a dryness sensor the sensor may overload if the clothes are not able to dry adequately.  The sensors then would malfunction or stop working.

The dryer motor could possibly burn out prematurely if you continue to overload it because it puts a strain on the dryer.

If you are overloading your dryer on a regular basis, that can eventually cause the system to overheat and cause damage to the unit.

My Washer Leaves The Laundry Soaking Wet

My Washer Leaves The Laundry Soaking Wet

If your laundry is dripping wet and very heavy after the final washer cycle is finished,  this is a check list that may help you troubleshoot and pin point the problem.

 

Check the clothes washer drain hose – clogged or bent –

On the back of your washer is a drain hose.  Check this to make certain it is not bent, therefore restricting the water from draining out.  At the same time you should remove the hose from the drain pump and check to see that the pump and drain hose don’t have any blockages that would be keeping the water from flowing.

Washer drain hose is positioned incorrectly –

Clothes Washer Drain Hose

The drain hose in back of your clothes washer may be either too far down in the drainpipe or not far enough down.  This would cause the water to not drain out of the tub, leaving your clothes dripping wet.

Drain filter or coin trap clogged on the clothes washer –

A clothes washer has a debris filter or coin trap which could possibly be blocked causing the washer not to spin dry your clothes  The drain filter is on the front bottom of the washer and the coin trap is located behind an access panel.  These are filtering devices and can be easily cleaned which will make the water flow when the washer is draining the water out.

The drain pump is clogged or faulty –

The washer drain pump may be clogged with debris or faulty if it will not spin all of the water out of the washer.  Check out the inside of the drain hose and the pump ports for debris that may be clogging them.  If these are clear, test the drain pump to make certain it is working properly.

Clothes Washer Pump

Wash load may make the tub get out of balance and not spin fast enough –

When loading the washer try to add items of the same size.  No blankets or large heavy items with smaller ones. This will get the washer out of balance.  Don’t overload your washer or pack clothing in tightly.

Loose or damaged clothes washer belt –

If your washing machine is not spinning your clothes dry it may be the belt, pump or the motor.  The belt could be stretched or just worn out.  Check the belt or the direct drive system for wear and tear.  If the drive belt or direct drive motor coupling is worn, stretched, broken, cracked or damaged in any way, they will need to be replaced.

Washing machine clutch may have gone bad –

Appliance Parts

If your washer is not spinning your clothes dry, it may be that the clutch is about to fail, because the spinning action is not sufficient to remove enough water from your clothes.

Your problem could possibly be the transmission, although this is usually rare.

More Washer Repair Help.

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Helpful tips and clothes dryer diagnostic advice below with troubleshooting suggestions for the Do-It-Yourselfer. See photos of common Whirlpool and Kenmore clothes dryer repair techniques.

Some of the General Diagnostic Repair Tips presented below may also apply for your,
GE, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef and Frigidaire electric clothes dryer.

Kenmore Dryer Repair Tips
Whirlpool Dryer Repair Help

Caution:

The diagnostic help out lined below is intended to be used only by professional appliance repair technicians.

If you are attempting to repair your clothes dryer yourself, be aware that you are working with potential dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious injury or death. Be aware that appliance parts have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious injury or death.

Always remove/disconnect the power source from the unit you are working on. Unplug it! When unplugging or removing the power source, double check to make sure you removed the proper cord or turned off the proper breaker. When tightening or loosening parts make sure that if the tool you are working with or your hand slips, you will not be injured by sharp or jagged edges.

Always keep children and pets away from working area and disassembled washer parts. Be aware that there are other hazards involved in appliance repairs besides those listed above that may cause serious injury or death. Use extreme caution when installing or removing parts.

 

A common malfunction is the dryer thermal fuse – when it gets too hot it will cause the dryer to cease/stop running and will not start again. These thermal fuses are not on all clothes dryers, they are found on most dryers made since 1986.

Clothes Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519

 

The information given below is general in nature and should not
be construed to be all inclusive nor necessarily applicable
toward your particular make or model electric clothes dryer.

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Disconnect The Dryer From It’s Power Source!

To access the inside of dryer cabinet – remove the two screws shown below,
then use a stout putty knife or regular wide screwdriver to pry the lid up.
Pulling the lid toward you while prying up will help,
then remove the two screws on the inside of the cabinet, one on each side.
See red arrow on the third picture below. These instructions apply to some dryers that do not have a kick plate on the bottom of the dryer.

If your Whirlpool dryer, Kenmore dryer has a kick plate,  this procedure may be different. Some parts can be accessed and repairs may be made after removing the kick plate. The kick plate can usually be removed with a stout putty knife by pushing in on the two retainer clips at top of the kickplate while gently pulling kickplate toward you. (some models since 1995)

Some newer models you may have to flip the console faceplate back to remove screws that allow you to remove the top and then remove front panel.

Disconnect the unit from it’s power source!

KENMORE DRYER REPAIR
WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR

REP-DRY-TOP-150x150

REP-DRY-TOPFLIP-150x150

REP-DRY-INSIDE-150x150After removing the screws (red arrow) pull the panel toward you a couple of inches, then lift up.

Check breaker box in the house. Electric (220 volt) dryer has two 110 volt circuits,  the motor will run but will not supply voltage to the element if one circuit is not on. This is usually a 30 amp double throw breaker.  Flip off and on a few times to test even if it looks like it’s on.

This is a common problem, especially in the summer.

  • Dryer runs does not heat.
  • Dryer running, is not heating.
  • Dryer will not start.
  • Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise.
  • Whirlpool and Kenmore repair diagnostic tips.
  • Dryer runs – makes loud clunking noise.
  • Dryer motor runs – the drum does not turn.
  • Heating element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  • Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common

Dryer runs but does not heat – Problems
KENMORE DRYER REPAIR    WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR
  1. Dryer heating element is shorted.  (has a break in the coil.)
    Replace the element (dryer heating element should show continuity with ohm meter.) Looking at the back, the element is located on right hand side in a long metal housing (on most older models). The housing must be removed from unit and element must be removed from the inside of the housing for  inspection. The heating element housing has a 3 1/2″ metal strap at the top that secures it to the dryer, The strap must be removed. Most common element part # 4391960.
  2. Thermal fuse is blown. Located in the back. The back cover must be removed. This thermal fuse should show continuity when checked with an ohm meter. Dryer replacement part # 279769.
  3. Dryer hi limit thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with an ohm meter provided it is cool. Most of these limits are either 250 degree shut off (L250) or 290 degree (L290) older models. T-stat limit part is located near bottom of heater housing.
  4. 01REP-DRY-FUSE2Operating thermostat may be blown. This t-stat should show continuity with ohm meter provided it is cool. This t-stat limit is located on blower housing. If there is only one limit it is usually a 145 degree limit (L145). Older units may have two or three limits. These are usually dryer repair parts (L135), (L145), (L155). Dryer thermostats.
Less common problems – Dryer is running but not heating

 

WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR   KENMORE DRYER REPAIR

  1. Dryer timer is defective.
  2. Switch on the dryer motor is defective.
  3. Temperature switch on the console is defective.
  4. Solid state circuit board is defective. (dryer main control board).
  5. Dryer power cord is defective.
  6. Terminal block (where the power cord is connected to the dryer) is shorted out.
  7. Wiring shorted at the terminal block, or elsewhere.
  8. Improper voltage supplied to the power cord (house current).

02REP-DRY-HILIMIT-150x150

Dryer will not start

Most common reasons

More Whirlpool And Kenmore Dryer Repair Help

 

Make sure the dryer is plugged in and has proper voltage.

  1. Operating thermal fuse is blown – This thermal fuse should show continuity with an ohm meter, oval type part # 3390719. rectangle type Part # 3392519. located in back of the dryer on the blower housing, this picture shows the (rectangle) type.  Older models have the (oval) type, both types are made of white plastic.
  2. Door switch defective. Replace with part # 279347. Switch is on the right hand (front). Older models may be located in center.
  3. Lever that actuates dryer door switch may be broken or bent. Replace with part # 279347.

03REP-L145-150x15004REP-DRY-FUSE-150x150

Less common reasons
  1. Dryer is not plugged in.
  2. No voltage at wall socket.
  3. Dryer power cord is defective.
  4. Terminal block shorted or wires shorted else where.
  5. Wires shorted at the terminal block. (where power cord connects to the dryer).
  6. Dryer timer is defective.
  7. Solid state circuit board defective. (Main Control Board).
  8. Dryer  motor defective.
  9. Push to start switch defective. Note: This is probably the least likely reason dryer will not start. If the switch is made of clear plastic and you can see residue inside where the points have been arcing, this is normal and does not signify a bad switch. The switch when depressed should show continuity with an ohm meter.

05REP-DRY-LEVER-150x150

Motor tries to start – makes a buzzing noise when the Push To Start Switch is activated.

Whirlpool and Kenmore dryer repair diagnostic tips.
  1. Dryer motor may be defective. (most probable).
  2. Blower fan may be obstructed.
  3. Defective timer.
  4. Seized idler pulley or drum rollers.
  5. Defective switch on the motor. (bad motor switch)
  6. Rear drum seal is shredded, hung up on the rollers or elsewhere.
  7. Improper electrical house current.
  8. Shorted wiring or bad terminal block.
Dryer runs – makes a loud clunking noise
  1. Drum rollers are worn. – (most probable cause). Part # 349241t.
  2. Idler pulley is worn. Part # 691366.
  3. Front or rear drum seals is defective. – (rare).

06REP-DRY-SWT-150x150

More pictures that show the inside and back of your Whirlpool or Kenmore clothes dryer.

Dryer motor runs – but the drum does not turn.

Your Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer may be easy to repair.

  1. Belt broken – (most probable).
  2. Dryer idler pulley broken or dislodged.
  3. Idler pulley installed in the wrong position.
  4. Extremely stretched belt.
  5. Dryer motor pulley is loose.
  6. Dryer belt installed improperly.
Heat element stays on after the dryer shuts off.
  1. Defective motor switch.
  2. Heater element coil touching heater element housing.
  3. Wiring shorted (least probable).

07REP-DRY-ROLLER31-150x150

 

Dryer takes too long to dry.

Most common causes:

Clogged Clothes Dryer Lint Screen/Trap

  1. Vent hose has kink in it.
  2. Vent hose too long.
  3. Vent hose clogged.
  4. Interior house vent pipe clogged at roof or elsewhere.
  5. Flap on exterior vent is stuck or clogged.
  6. Lint filter has build-up residue on screen. (use wire brush to clean.)
  7. Lint filter not cleaned after each load.
  8. Dryer door not closed properly.
  9. Door seal missing.
  10. Back drum seal defective.
  11. Defective operating thermostat, (L145) is most common.
  12. Defective hi-limit thermostat, (L250)  (L290)  are most common.
  13. Defective timer – defective temperature select switch.
  14. Defective dryer motor switch.
  15. Intermittent operation of above electrical parts.
  16. Restricted air flow, interior cabinet air flow system.
  17. Washer not spin-drying clothes properly.
  18. Heater element housing loose from bulkhead.

This is not a complete list of causes

WHIRLPOOL DRYER PARTS

Some of the dryer brands listed above may be made by a different
manufacturer in which case,  these general repair instructions
may not apply.

Dryer drum rollers & idler pulley.

Dryer part number # 439206509REP-DRY-BELT-150x150

 

Whirlpool/Kenmore Direct Drive Washer Repair

Whirlpool/Kenmore Direct Drive Washer Repair

Repair tips for direct drive washers, Kenmore/Whirlpool washer troubleshooting, diagnostic advice and helpful hints. Common washer problems and easy fixes.

Helpful hints and diagnostic advice and
troubleshooting suggestions for the do – it – yourselfer.
See photos of some common Whirlpool and Kenmore washer repair techniques.

Some of the general diagnostic tips presented below may also apply to your
GE, Maytag, Amana and Magic Chef washing machines.

Kenmore Washer Repair
Whirlpool Washer Repair

See photos of repair techniques below with helpful hints
and repair advice for the most common part problems you might have
with your direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore clothes washer.

Caution:

The diagnostic help out lined below is intended to be used only by professional appliance repair technicians.

If you are attempting to repair your clothes washer yourself, be aware that you are working with potential dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious injury or death. Be aware that appliance parts have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious injury or death.

Always remove the power source from the unit you are working on. Unplug it! When unplugging or removing power source, double check to make sure you removed the proper cord or turned off the proper breaker when tightening part, make sure that if the tool you are working with or your hand slips, you will not be injured by sharp or ragged edges.

Keep children and pets away from working area and disassembled washer parts. Be aware that there are other hazards involved in appliance repair, besides those listed above that may cause serious injury or death. Use extreme caution when installing or removing parts.

  • Pump Leaks
  • Inlet Valve Leaks
  • Motor runs will not spin or agitate
  • Will not spin motor does not run
  • Tub overflows with water
  • No hot water
  • No cold water
  • Hot or cold water fills slow
  • Water drips in the washer tub even when turned off

Common washer part problems

Pump leaks

Most common washer pump part # 3363394

Easy to replace remove the two spring clamps from the washer pump. Then remove the hoses from the pump. Pull the pump off of the shaft.

If the motor shaft is rusted and the drain pump will not pull off, it may need to be fragmented with a large screwdriver or chisel.

The motor shaft will then need to be cleaned of all rust and possibly filed so the new washer drain pump will slide on easily.

Inlet Valve Leaks

Easy to replace this part.

Other possible leaks

Check all of the rubber hoses for wear.
Check all of the hoses for a tight connection.

Motor runs will not spin or agitate

Check the motor coupling.
Check the transmission.

How to access the inside of the unit

undoscrews

flip-back

Remove the Phillips screws, then pull the console towards you & flip it up & back

03unhook-harness-150x150

remove-spring

Unhook the electrical harness, then insert screwdriver into the clip, then push back to pop spring out.

tilt-back

removed-cab

Open the washer lid – tilt the cabinet toward you then slide out and away from the unit. You now have easy access to all of the working parts.

MOTOR COUPLING PART IS DEFECTIVE

Usually you will see a pile of black rubber and possibly white plastic bits under the motor if this is the problem. Not always though!

Remove the pump from the motor and secure it away from the front of the motor. It is not necessary to remove the water hoses, use tie clips, wire, etc.

Remove the two 5/16 screws from the spring clips (see blue arrow) then with flat blade screw driver

remove the bottom spring clip from the washer motor then the top spring clip. Hold motor from the bottom to keep it from falling when the top clip is removed.

Remove the motor.

Remove the damaged coupling from the motor & transmission.

The transmission does not need to be removed.

Install the new motor coupling part # 285753A on to the motor and the transmission.

Install the white plastic part on the transmission first and the black rubber center on to this part.

To avoid damage to the motor when tapping the remaining white plastic motor coupling part onto the motor, make sure that the opposite end of the motor shaft is on a hard surface.

TRANSMISSION

To remove the transmission the agitator must first be removed.
Under the agitator cap there will be a screw to remove, then the agitator should lift out.

Tub will not spin – motor will not run

  1. lid switch parts defective
  2. lid plunger broke or missing
  3. lid not seating properly to engage switch
  4. red wire on motor switch loose or shorted
  5. timer defective

To replace the lid switch you will usually need to remove the cabinet as shown above, quite often the lever will be broken on this switch and the lid plunger does not activate it.

To remove the Whirlpool / Kenmore timer, the knob must be unscrewed (counter clockwise) then you can remove the two 5/16 securing screws
(most models)

Tub overfills

  1. water inlet valve is defective.
  2. water level switch part is defective.
  3. small rubber hose to water level switch loose.

No hot water

Usually a defective water inlet valve.
Occasionally a defective water temperature switch.

No cold water

Usually a defective water inlet valve.
Occasionally a defective water temperature switch.

Hot or cold water fills very slow

Usually a defective water inlet valve.

Water drips in tub even when turned off

Defective water inlet valve.

Whirlpool beltless washer repair
Kenmore beltless washer repair
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