Top Load Washer Won't Drain

If your washers not draining, here you will find troubleshooting help with some of the most common solutions to repair your broken top load washer with.

WARNING – If you are attempting to repair any household appliances yourself, be aware that you are working with potentially dangerous electrical currents that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Always remove the electrical power source from the appliance before you ever begin working on it.  Be aware that appliances have extremely sharp edges and moving parts that can cause serious bodily injury or death.  Be aware that there are many other dangers and precautions involved in appliance repair besides those listed above.  We strongly suggest that you please read our DISCLAIMER before any further actions are taken or proceeding any further.  Always think safety first!  Note You must turn both the hot and cold water supply valves off at the wall that lead to the back of the washer before removing any hoses or hose clamps.

Troubleshoot Why A Top Load Washer Won’t drain With Water With These 4 – Steps

Step-1. Drain Hose

Inspect the drain hose for obstructions, clogs, kinks or anything that might prevent the water from draining through the hose.

Step-2. Drain Pump

Inspect the drain pump ports and the pumps impeller for obstructions or debris, if any debris is found you it will need to be removed.  make sure that the impeller is intact and in good working order, if the impeller is damaged or won’t spin easy, you will need to replace the drain pump.

Step-3. Drive Belt

Check the washers drive belt that goes from the drive motor to the drain pump, if the washer is belt driven.  If the belt is broken, the washer won’t drain the water from the tub, you will need to replace the belt.

Step-3. Lid Switch

On some top load washer models, if the lid switch has failed the washer won’t drain from the wash tub.   The lid switch can be tested for continuity, visually inspect the lid switch to make sure that it is not obviously damaged or broken, if it is not broken, then you will need to test the switch for continuity using an analog multimeter or a digital meter.  If the lid switch does have continuity and shows no visual signs of damage, the switch should be good.  If the switch does not have continuity, the part is bad and it will need to be replaced with a new lid switch.  Troubleshooting tip – If you don’t have a test meter, a digital meter can be purchased fairly cheap online or from one of the bigger hardware stores, a test meter is a real time and money saver while troubleshooting the numerous  electrical parts that are used on a washer.  Electrical parts can be diagnosed either good or bad, and can be eliminated very quickly, instead of assuming that a part is faulty and replacing it, only to find out that part wasn’t bad and the problem lies elsewhere with another electrical part.

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